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desparately need a resaw solution

2/14/14       
Dan

No matter what I do I cannot achieve accurate resaw cuts on 8/4 hardwood blocks (12" long x 6" wide x 2") using my 14" Powermatic bandsaw. I'm using a 1/2" 3 teeth per inch blade. The blade is perfectly square both to the table and to the very sturdy 24" long resaw fence I made out of 3/4" birch ply. I have carefully analyzed blade drift and set my fence accordingly. I can make perfectly accurate cuts when cutting long pieces of flat stock like plywood or MDF. But when I try to remove 1/2" from the previous mentioned hardwood blocks the blocks get pulled away from the fence almost immediately and, at the same time, the blade begins drifting to the operator's left further and further into the wood. By the time I'm halfway through a 12" board my pressure against the board to hold it to the fence bends the blade towards the fence. If I let go of the board at that point the board pops off the fence by 1/4" or more along its entire length. (The work pieces have been milled flat on one face and edge prior to resawing.) I'm at a loss for what to do. I seem to have exhausted my knowledge about this problem. Any suggestions?

2/15/14       #2: desparately need a resaw solution ...
door shop guy

One word...TENSION

2/15/14       #3: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Geoff

You did't mention top and bottom guide bearings. Your not mentioning it is probably oversight, but if not, you should adjust or replace and adjust them.

2/16/14       #4: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Adam

Accurate resawing on bandsaws is not like tablesaws. The tablesaw blade has no drift.

The fence you describe sounds like a small tablesaw fence. long and straight. That will not work with a bandsaw blade.

The band saw work best with a piece of pipe attached to a straight fence or a piece of solid half round. It is fastened vertically next to the blade.( So you have a 1mm wide fence as tall as you require(6").

Often on the bigger saws they come with a funny looking fence that is a piece of cast steel 6" wide and 8" tall.

You can find this info in many woodworking books and all bandsaw specific books.

2/16/14       #5: desparately need a resaw solution ...
door shop guy

Properly tension your blade and you wont need a pipe fence.

2/16/14       #6: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Dan

Thanks everyone for your replies. Adam, I'm using a 24" x 7" resaw fence I made using 3/4" birch ply. I based it on a YouTube design. It is very stable and perfectly square. Door shop guy, I do need to experiment with blade tension. That's one thing I haven't done. BUT, I've been using a very tightly tensioned blade so far and from what I've read that's the way to go. My next step, if I can't solve this thing, is to make a simple pivot fence. Sometimes simplicity is best I guess.

2/16/14       #7: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Adam

Stable and square is not the issue. It is simply the length of the fence. As you resaw it releases tension in the wood and it bows . This should be obvious. The bow pushes it away or towards the fence. Between that and the asymmetric twist of the blade which is causing the drift multiplys the problem. Running very high blade tension with wide thick kerf blades that don't twist limits the drift. That is what a typical resaw bandsaw looks like. 2" blade with 3/32 kerf.

The 24" fence will not work for resawing. Try the single line(pipe) style fence and you will be amazed at how easy it is to control.

The other option if you have a decent 10" cabinet saw is to put a thin kerf ripping blade and make 2 passes end for end. Most 10" saws cut about 3 1/4" in height.

2/17/14       #8: desparately need a resaw solution ...
JeffD

I'm going to go another direction and say your blade is dull already. If your using a carbon steel blade and cutting through mdf it's already gone, time to buy a new one. When you try to re-saw wood with a dull blade the blade wants to go the path of least resistance. So it will try to cut with the grain instead of a straight line. Try this experiment to see…..when you have a board that starts pushing away from the fence pull it back out. Flip it end for end and try feeding again with the same face against the fence, I'll bet it sticks tight to the fence now? If so your blade is dull and no amount of tension is going to get it to cut straight.

Only other option I can think of, and only b/c you seem say it only drifts away from fence? Is your fence is NOT set to the blades drift. If every board goes the same direction, and you reverse one as I mentioned and it still goes away, your fence is not set correctly. Simply adjust it until the boards no longer push away.

good luck,
JeffD

2/18/14       #9: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Bruce H

the other issue with a band (besides tension) is surface feet per minute. the optimum for a band is 10,000 FPM, not possible with a 14" saw. I sped my 14" up to the point I have to glue the tires on to keep them in place. works better but still not fast enough. a larger saw (36") would work better.

2/19/14       #10: desparately need a resaw solution ...
ML

Check out the attached YouTube video - I've seen this guy at several shows and he knows bandsaws! This video might steer you in the right direction.

That being said, I've found I could never really resaw to my satisfaction until I purchased a Lenox one inch, 1-3 carbide tipped blade for my 24" bandsaw. I had previously thought a 14" was too small, even my 18" Laguna didn't seem to work to well. So, I purchased a 24" Grizzly with the cast iron fence equipped with a 6" x 20" aluminum resaw attachment and was extremely disappointed in that despite the huge 7-1/2" hp 3p motor. After talking to a local mill, they steered me to the Lenox carbide blade and I've never looked back! The one inch blade that came with the saw was JUNK! So yea - the blade makes all the difference in the world! For the record, I've resawn well over 3 thousand feet of hardwood on this Grizzly now and just love how well the Lenox blade performs. Cutting veneers for bookmatching has become one of my favorites now that I've found a blade that resaws so well. And 3 years later, I'm still using the same blade with no signs of dulling yet.

As for a fence - I've seen no drift at all, my fence is 20" long and the blade tracks straight with no tendency to steer in or out. Actually, according to the guy in the video - no saw should ever have "drift" if set up properly.. ;-)

Make note that it is critical to have good dust collection on your setup when resawing - buildup of dust causes heat which dulls a blade very quickly.

Tuning your bandsaw

2/19/14       #11: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Bruce H

ML, learned a lot from that video. The author certainly knew his saw. Thanks for posting the link.

2/24/14       #12: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Gene Wengert-WoodDoc

I support the previous comments and add the following.

Appreciate that when cutting, the blade will always try to bend..the duller, the more bend. A wide blade cannot bend backwards, so it goes left or right.

Proper adjustment of the guides is necessary. I believe your saw has a top guide, which should be as close to the wood as possible, that consists of three wheels. The back wheel should not touch the blade when not cutting...we want the blade to move backwards. The side guides should not touch but be very, very close. They should just miss touching the teeth when the blade is pushed backward against the back guide. Repeat the above for the bottom guide system.

Slow feeding allows for more side bend.

The hook of the teeth should be as close to zero for ripping. A larger negative hook means more pushing of the wood and therefore more bending. You can buy specialty rip bandsaw blades, such as "Resaw King" from Laguna. Expensive but excellently they have the proper hook and the sides are properly dressed to. I am not sure what blade is made for your specific saw for ripping.

The wood grain can affect movement, but in this case, sometimes the grain will push one way and sometimes the other.

I would suggest 3/4" or even 1" blades (my favorite), rather than 1/2".

It is not uncommon to see the fence adjusted slightly, left to right and even vertically to give the best cut.

Tension of the blade is important but not usually that important unless the present tension is way off. Wider blades need and can tolerate more overall tension.

.Bandsaw blade info

9/12/14       #13: desparately need a resaw solution ...
Willia,m Falberg Member

Website: http://falbergsaws.com

I would replace whatever blade you're using with a TriMaster 1/2" -3 TPI blade to eliminate the drifting problem first. Then; (and I don't know if you can find a way to mount this on your cast iron table) insert a stub fence immediately behind the blade that will slip into the kerf to guide the motherboard while the veneer falls off the backside because you cut off half the length of your fence and threw it away. No push-off; no snipe. There it is. I just threw away another patent because I couldn't afford to play in the corporate world of IP anymore. I have the design and drawings for the next generation of resaw band saws but can't get them into production. THAT is the problem !


View higher quality, full size image (2105 X 2845)

5/7/18       #14: desparately need a resaw solution ...
William Falberg Member

Website: http://www.falbergsaws.com

The key word in my last post was the CT (carbide tipped) part. If you have the option (ie. enough frame, tension & HP) to run 1"-3TPI blades you'll be even happier. But you have to cure your blade drift problem first; they're fast and narrow but only go one direction; fence or feed accordingly.

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