TB1 1 is an excellent glue.
The only products that benefits from water dampening are moisture cure polyurethanes(Gorilla Glue).
You are slowing the drying time of the TB1 by wetting the wood. I have never heard of anyone doing it. Then you are not leaving them in clamps for very long. Then you are sanding them in a short amount of time. I suspect there is hardly any glue at joint mostly because of the wetting step.
PVA glues love to stick to smooth surfaces. The smoother the better. The best glue joints are achieved off of a brand new sharp set of jointer knives.
PVA also like thin glue joints. It is almost impossible to apply too much pressure with typical pipe/case clamps. You would have sore hands after a few doors.
Unless the profile are burnt or glazed you should use them right off the shaper/door machine. If they are get the set sharpened or learn how to use the machine properly.
Apply glue to 1 surface(2 is a waste of time and does not help), clamp , pin with 22 gauge pinner, leave in clamps for a minimum of 5 minutes.(Lots of clamps are needed to make doors.) Clean the glue off of the profiles. Leave it on the faces. Sand them typically the next day.
I have haven't had a door surface crack in 15 years.
I prefer to sand, prime, putty, sand, topcoat. You end up double puttying by using a filler before primer. There will always be more minor defects. Bondo also can lead to print thru when painting. It is too hard.