I am managing a job on Kauai where we are installing teak siding . The siding is 9/16” x 5” face t&g from Indoteak. It is an engineered product that uses solid teak as the crossband sub layers. It is prefinished with Rubio monocoat on the face and back sealed with a water base sealer . It is going on top of sheathing that has 3/16” furring strips every 8”.
We are mitering corners and miter returning into window and door jambs. We have a floating 1/8” spline in jamb edges to connect to slotted mitered returns that are 3/4” to 1-1/2” wide.
We are using West System, fast cure with microfiber. We are wiping glue surfaces with Acetone prior to gluing. We are blue taping glued miters and also pin tacking with 23g ss headless pin nails.
We are removing blue tape on miters within 1 hour to wipe off any glue residue with acetone and changing to clean rags frequently.

WONDERING IF WE CAN USE TITEBOND III instead of epoxy. Concidering all install location factors like: 9’ tall walls, deep overhangs, weather that can be sweltering hot to windy/wet and any factors above. West System is bomb proof but it is so time consuming and we need to be careful with not getting glue residue on exposed surfaces.
If we went with TBIII we would still wipe glue surfaces with acetone.
Like to get some solid feedback.

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I too love the West System 105 epoxy. As a Michigander, it’s better brand than a Ford anyday. I have been using the G5, which is their 5 minute epoxy. Don’t be fooled by the 5 minute label, it’s strong $hit. In reading the literature on the product, it may not fair well in overly wet environments. Not sure how much moisture your joints will see, but titty bond 3 never impressed me in an application that needed strong holding power. I believe another woodweber states that it loses substantial strength after it gets above 130 degrees. My front door, which is a mahogany, gets very hot on the outside during the late afternoon when it get full exposure the sun. Never would have thought it would get as hot as it does, and I’m in northern Michigan. Good thing I used the 105 west system.

David Sochar has commented that TB III adhesion strength degrades with heat. Another problem that I have seen is PVA will swell when coated with oil finish. You end up with a small ridge at the glue line. I am not sure if that would happen with Rubio but it does with tung oil and other true oils.
Could you make test joints and run them through cycles of heat and wet?

What I learned about TBIII is that is loses its strength - its grip - as temperatures increase. At 180 degrees, it loses about half it strength. We have had very dark doors register a surface temp of 200 degrees just from solar exposure. We had about 12 projects out in the world with panels glued for width that came apart or threatened same.

If you wish to use TBIII, I would call the tech department at Franklin glue and use the temps you think this siding may experience. They were very candid with me.

As for using the epoxy, I once had a boss that would at the precise moment say "This is why we call it work, and this is why we pay you to do it!" I have been known to repeat that rough bit of managerial wisdom. I think I'd stick with the epoxy.

Yes, it’s is work. I don’t want any call backs ,so probably staying with epoxy.

You are doing everything as good as it can be done. Why do you want to switch to TB3. Epoxy is the standard for glueing teak. Over the decades we settled on TB1 for interior and epoxy for exterior. Every other product that's exterior rated negatives.

There are usually 3 reasons why people don't use/like epoxy. Cost, lack of experience, time to mix/waste.

The wood cost alone means that cost should not be an issue. You've got the experience and time to mix is irrelevant in almost every project.

You can improve your epoxy usage by using vinegar for general cleanup. Iso alcohol(rubbing) is the best solvent for epoxy. Not denatured alcohol or acetone.

I would encourage you to try MAS epoxy. They have a product called FLAG resin. It's thick enough that you don't have to thicken it for woodworking. It's also a modern 2:1 non-blushing system that doesn't cause contamination issues.

West System is good stuff(I've used 100's of gallons) but the viscosity is always a problem. 5:1 mixing is a bit annoying as well. It's available everywhere so that's a plus.

Yes, We are sticking with epoxy . Just thought to ask if there were other options.
We had a learning curve at the start . Guys were not careful with epoxy residue from joints and handling material . So they have to use fine wire brush to rid epoxy from miter joints and surface areas. I will try the green scotch brite attachments for dremel drill.
I will use iso alcohol , acetone is what we been using.

Hi Kim,

We started to use a product by Loctite.https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/glues-silicones-and-caulking/cons
truction-glues-and-adhesives/polyurethane-glues/loctite-glue-ur-series/1209594
Mostly on exterior door components and arch laminations including Accoya, so far we have no failures. The attached web page does not list, but it but it is available in 5 gal, with 60 and 70 min. open times.
Its messy to work with and hard to clean. It stands up to heat well and is water proof.
Not sure if it is better than the west system epoxy. One plus is you don't have to mix it.

https://www.richelieu.com/documents/docsGr/120/959/4/1209594/1466670.pd
Not sure if the link works in the original email. hope this works better.

TITEBOND III seen it first hand it gets soft in the heat.

In the second picture, those are all miters? did you biscuit or spline that looks like something that could open up

Those small mitres wouldn't take much to hold the mitres. I used one years ago a two gun cartridge with no mixing especially on site

Expoxy is epoxy you are well covered no much pounding rain.

Just curious do you put a clear coat after and do you caulk the seams

https://www.amazon.ca/Manual-Epoxy-Applicator-Gun-6-75/dp/B07Q8FVTXZ?th=1