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Subject: Re: Plank door construction

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Message Thread:

Plank door construction

5/19/15       
Barry Raven Member

Website: http://auseco.com

Could anyone suggest a method of construction for this solid wood door design – I need to make a dozen of them for interior use in genuine Mahogany. Each ‘plank’ will be stained a different color.

They will be hinged in a hardwood door frame – actual door size Height 6.5’ x Width 2.5’ x Thick 2.4”

They are for a very upmarket project requiring a fine quality look & finish.

Concern is warping and expansion between rainy season and dry season.

Annual humidity range here is 67% to 81%

Mahogany lumber is at 12% MC

After reading through the knowledge base over the last few days it appears there are 4 construction methods worth considering::
1, Ladder core with Mahogany veneer 'planks' glued to both faces.

2. Individual Stave core planks with T&G or spline joints.

3. One piece engineered wood slab core with veneer pieces glued onto both faces.

4. 3 ply laminated solid wood planks - glued together with T&G or spline joints.

Given real Mahogany's reputation for stability and minimal movement would the # 4 option be viable or will it move over the years quite a bit like other woods?


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Solid Wood Door Construction Methods

5/21/15       #3: Plank door construction ...
David R Sochar Member

I prefer the old-school way these doors were most often made. With a mortise and tenon core of stiles and rails that give it dimensional stability, the faces are most often 3/4" thick T&G on both sides glued and or nailed in place. This is the most flexible way, in my opinion, that will allow windows, cross rails and other features added as needed.

The 20th century ply core or stable cor with veneers will work just fine, but seems a bit over built for the simple things the predecessors are.

Plank doors, just like frame and panel doors, derive their look from their construction. It is an honest result from working the way they used to do it.

5/21/15       #4: Plank door construction ...
rich c.

I wouldn't glue the planks on the frame, but David's advice is good. It would let you stain each plank differently, then just nail them on. But man, that idea of color stripes is not appealing to me one little bit. Are you building them for a castle? 2.4" thick is A LOT!

5/25/15       #5: Plank door construction ...
Barry Member

No they are not exactly for a castle - but close enough to it!

An old school 3/4" stile and rail ladder frame with 3/4" veneer planks does sound the way to go with this one.

Would you leave a small gap between each plank for expansion?

Rich C you mention you would not glue the planks on as David suggested. I was going to use a glue like Titebond 3 which stays flexible and which I'd imagine should handle the slight movement - bad idea?

Actually the colors in the image are exaggerated to make the design stand out but they will be toned down quite a bit in the finished doors. Agree it does look a tad scary.

5/25/15       #6: Plank door construction ...
David R Sochar Member

We always leave about .040" between the planks. They are most often v-jointed, as this gives a bit of a 'crush zone' for expansion. We may pin them in place, but like a vacuum bag for pressing with TBIII or II glue.

The idea is that each board moves within it own space. If they were all tightly edged together, the door will cup if MC increases. I once saw a garage door 4' wide cup 8" out of flat because of expansion!

5/26/15       #7: Plank door construction ...
rich c.

David addressed my concern. If all glued up tight, you no longer have a bunch of single boards, you have one wide board. I didn't check your website, so no idea where you are located. But here in Central IL, there is a wide swing in weather. As one wide board, it would really have to rattle in the winter and would likely rub in the summer. Frame and panel doors took care of this issue a long time ago. Use as much rift or quarter sawn as you can.

 

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