So there's been lots of discussion on this forum about cracked panels on exterior wood doors, and interesting ideas and methods to solve the problem. Apparently I need to pay closer attention. This is my first failure.

The question, then, becomes, has anyone had any success, or have a method, of fixing the cracks, aside from replacing the panel itself?

The door in question is 2-1/4" thick, with two 3/4" panels separated by rigid foam. The panels are held in by bolection moulding, so they can be removed if necessary. The panels are glued with TBII.

What I'm wondering about here is peoples successes or failures when it comes to field repair.

Thanks.

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Hi Christopher,

For glue joints in exterior door panel we had good luck with this glue.

https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/glues-silicones-and-caulking/con
struction-glues-and-adhesives/polyurethane-glues/loctite-glue-ur-series/1209594 <
P>It can handle heat better. We found the Titebond just wont stand up in the direct sunlight of the Canadian prairie. My guess is heat and the resulting wood movement was to much for the glue joint.

I don't think will get a repair that will be satisfactory over time. You could fill and paint in a great stain match but that glue joint is prone to failure. My opinion is to spend the time and effort removing and replace/repair the panel. Bummer I know but it would be worse to have to do it a third time.
I guess the door is facing south or west.

After 35 years of dealing with the same problem you have, we determined that
1. There is no successful field repair other than replacement.
2. Titebond III glue is the worst glue ever foisted on the hapless woodworker.
3. 7 ply panels as detailed in my book "Small Shop Production of Custom Wood Doors" is the best and only solution.

Thanks for the replies and confirming what I already knew, lol.

Fred, thanks for commenting, you do beautiful work. In your process, what type of joinery do you use in combination with that glue? Unfortunately I wish I could blame heat and sun... the door has only seen one season so far, which was winter.

David, I have your book. I guess it's time to experiment with your process.

Just a shot in the dark, but would it be possible to remove the panel, rip it with a thin kerf and reglue? a well-tuned bandsaw and a hand plane wouldn't remove much more than 3/32". Or maybe a thin kerf track saw?

Unfortunately I don't think that will work. Further evidence points to a larger problem, which leads me to believe that I'm looking at a process error. Most likely the wrong glue.

I'm not of the opinion that all the glue joints on a panel suffering from weather stress should be failing at the same time. You would think a stressed out panel would fail at one joint and then be relatively stress free? This panel appears to be failing all over.

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Two thin raises over a foam board is not sound. Make your panels "solid" and you can have a 3/4" tongue going into the moldings. This 3/4" or thicker is much stronger than thin wood with foam. Ditch da foam, my friend

Gary B- Rip and repair may be adequate for this panel this time. It does not address the real problem- how to avoid them altogether

Hi Christopher,
We build panels up in several ways depending on style, grain, wood size and profile.
Also i do like David's way of building up the panels and I have his book as well. We have mostly done divided inner and outer panel. In our climate inside and outside temperature and conditions are often very different. The divided panels have worked better for us. But i believe as a manufacturer you have to adjust to what works best for you situation. Sometimes we add a layer of styro SM to get a higher R value.
As far as the Loctite glue goes we found it woks better on a clean sawcut than the moulder glue joint. Its messy to work with but its available in different open times. We had good results with it for exterior use.

On any exterior panels I never just use a straight glue joint. Normally I like a T&G joint or a shaped glue joint.
I have had pretty good luck with TB 3 but it is very inconsistent for viscosity and always stir the pails before use. It is rated D4 to withstand boiling water for a certain amount of time. I’ve tested in the past but believe given the inconsistency you may not always get the same results. I have been experimenting with a Jowat PVA that seems promising but to get a D4 rating on that an additive is needed and that gives a short pot life. For me that is a downside. The glue Fred mentioned looks promising. I also do 2 sided for planked panels but for raised panels I don’t like the thinness at the edge and prefer a single thicker panel for this. In my area flat plank panels are the norm except for historical work. The panels are usually not wide in historic doors so that helps.

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