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Epoxy barrier coat on exterior doors

5/9/14       
Mike

We are getting more and more calls for flat slab exterior doors as this seems to be the design of choice currently. We seems to be having good results using two part poly coatings but I'm wondering if we should start using an epoxy barrier coat followed by a varnish.

5/12/14       #2: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
Jim

Lot's of information in the finishing knowledge base. Also contact west system for information about epoxy.

5/12/14       #3: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
David R Sochar Member

After 40 years of building exterior doors - and recommending finish programs for same - I know one thing: The door will eventually need to be refinished. Not recoated, but old finish removed and new applied.

Therefore, I recommend products that can be removed and recoated easily. Epoxy does not fit that category. I cannot imagine removing an epoxy finish - the cost and time would be prohibitive. I do recommend Sikkens or spar varnish, and it is very easy to recoat every few years. If it ever does need to be removed, then it also is easy.

The old IWP exterior doors had a catalyzed finish that looked great but was very difficult to refurbish. I do know of one incident where a local finisher tried to charge a customer $35,000 to strip and refinish a paired entry. He had tented the area and was in there for 2 months!

5/12/14       #4: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
Adam

You need to wait a minimum of 7 days to topcoat epoxy resin with oil/solvent based products. Spar varnish will not harden if put on before the epoxy fully cures.

Do not thin epoxy. It adequately penetrates wood fibers at its normal viscosity. The determining factor of finish failure is the adhesive bond between the epoxy and wood. Thinning does not increase the adhesion. It actually lowers by waterproofness of the epoxy.

Problems of refinishing are caused by interlayer failures between the coats. This can be a problem between the varnish and epoxy. The epoxy is much harder than the varnish and the varnish can be scuffed off of the epoxy. The other scenario is gouging. This is where the damage goes down to bare wood. In this event the door will be unrepairable without showing some blotchy spots .

Doors should be protected with a homogeneous repairable product like spar varnish or Sikkens or a extremely durable solvent system.

Solvent system can be a problem in the future if the guy fixing it doesn't know what product was used, also they are often designed for spray application, spraying solvent in the field is not available.

If you ask in the finishing forum you should get some long term experience with the newer solvent systems like Ml Campbell Eurobild exterior. Its been around for atleast 10 years.

Most people who try the Bristol finish are happy with the final product. Cost is higher; however, it would be similar to an epoxy/varnish solution.

Bristol Finish

5/12/14       #5: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
Jim Baldwin

David has said it plain enough and I'll add my 2 cents.

If allowed to deteriorate to any significant state, epoxy wood finishes will have to be removed with a heat-gun and scraper (one small spot at a time). Sand paper won't cut it. It's significantly more difficult to remove than varnish. In truth, it's hell on earth to even consider.

Epoxy coatings are capable of lasting for years and years but proper application is the key. We're talking about penetrating epoxy primers and a half-dozen or more coats of Bristol. After that you'll still need to meticulously maintain the finish since wood moves and cracks the coating.

In my opinion, epoxy coatings over wood are almost always a mistake. Varnish is a close second. Both involve herculean stripping efforts.

Most every boat owner knows this stuff...
If you're not willing to live your life with sandpaper and brush continually and habitually in hand, you're better off with traditional oil or cetol.

Oil though, will inevitably look unfinished and dirty but at least it won't kill you to restore it.

Cetol eventually flakes off with a stiff brush or disappears on it's own. A yearly re-coating with a light scuff will maintain it. Cetol will never be a "show-quality sheen" but gets my vote for uncommon good sense.

I'm a wood boat owner and I've been to hell and back, time and again.

5/26/14       #6: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
Gene Wengert-WoodDoc

Regarding epoxy, there are different types. The standard epoxy is quickly deteriorated by uv light, so you need one that has uv stabilizers or absorbers. But, my understanding is that such absorbers do not last forever.

My sail boat is epoxy coated with several coats of paint on top. I built it myself and it is 8 years old and doing well. I used Zimdars 123 first on top of the epoxy.

5/26/14       #7: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
Jim Baldwin

Pigmented epoxy paints are great and virtually indestructible, especially over epoxy resins and fiberglass mat but clear-coat epoxy over raw wood is an entirely different subject.

7/21/17       #8: Epoxy barrier coat on exterior door ...
Old Pinky

I made the mistake of leaving an Epoxy coated table out in the sun. The finish turned yellow. I would not epoxy any wood exposed to outside.
Hope this helps.


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