I've have run several of the ReSaw blades from Laguna. There are many factors to getting good results with the blade, but that being said...I've only gotten average performance. I've run them on a Laguna 14SE. They do the job, but IMO not worth the price. Tweak you current bandsaw with guides, a good fence (aligned) and stock that is properly prepared and a freshly sharpened blade and you'll be miles ahead of the extra cost of the ReSaw King. Resawing anything of value or importance requires a fresh blade. This goes for the ReSaw King or any other less expensive blade.

I am not familiar with any of the bandsaws mentioned above. I have a Baker and I have had since 2003. I would recommend looking at a Baker. I have never re-sharpened a blade. Baker sells their blades so cheap, it would be a waste of money to re-sharpen them. My Baker can re-saw up to 12" wide and as you know, re-sawing is a money maker. The drive is hydraulic driven, speed is controlled by turning a valve. Most woods can be sliced at about 35 feet a minute, but it is easy to adjust the speed.

Thank you for the responses. I am leaning toward a saw like the Wadkin that Mr. Sochar mentions - another English brand, Stenner, makes some dedicated resaws that aren't too huge and are seemingly more available.

I can assure BC2 that it is not blades or set-up - I have owned the saw for nearly 20 years and have upgraded everything on it, run every type of blade, including carbide-tipped, and it comes down to an under-engineered machine that does not hold adjustment, as well as being under-powered.

I've looked at horizontal saws, and am intrigued by the idea, but am hesitant for two reasons. Firstly, the require more floor space, and secondly, I can't imagine they would work well for thin stock, though perhaps Mr. Miller can speak to this. We regularly resaw material to net .062-.100 after sanding, so add a 1/16" to those numbers to get sawn thickness. I would think with the horizontal saw and it's hold-downs thin stock would be problematic.

Baker has a video on YouTube, that will explain the saw better than I can. When I was researching resaws, 2002, a sales rep that I really liked and respected his opinion, was very high on the Stenner. But, I had a friend that sold exotic lumber and I was in his shop and he had a Baker. At that time, I believe I paid about $15,000 for my Baker and I believe the Stenner was well over $20,000.

The post asked for opinions, this is my opinion. I am very happy with my Baker. Also, look at the bandsaw blades. I don't know the exact cost of a blade from Baker today, but they were about $15 each.

Generally, we don't rip anything thinner than 1/4". You control the thickness of the material by raising or lowering the bed. The Baker has paid for itself many times over and after 15 years, other than changing blades, I have never had anything go wrong with it.

We have a smaller Baker that has worked very well. Max width is about 8 1/2". The bed tilts for making some molding blanks and for lap siding. 20hp operates both the blade and the hydraulic feed. Blade runs directly on steel wheels and always tracks perfectly. We cut 3/16" and then wide belt to 1/8 for curved jambs, door rails & stile veneer and the like. The cut is very true. Bought 10 years ago for $7K in excellent condition, has not needed any repairs. Blades are cheap.

Depending on volume, you may want to look at sawmill options. Maybe call Wood-mizer.

I have an SCMI 36" saw with a 10HP motor that we use to centerline split our moulder blanks. I just started importing our blanks already milled to a thin thickness, so in a month or two I will probably sell the saw for round $2500.

This item might fit a temp need

http://machinerymax.com/Event/LotDetails/9018647/EXTREMA-RESAW-XB32R