I’m making some some cherry tops to replace existing on some bedroom furniture. The current tops are oak veneer plywood with 1-1/2 bullnose on 3 sides. Instead of matching the 40 year old finish the new tops will be cherry and have a two tone look. Customer likes the idea. The bullnose will be eliminated on new tops and will have a square edge.
I can either go cherry ply with solid edge on 3 sides or solid. To get 1-1/2” I need to bring in cherry and would rather not. I have 1” cherry on hand. 2 tops 22x42 and 1 top 22x84. Can you build up end grain to 1-1/2” by glueing an end grain piece to each side and then mitre fold the front piece? I’m thinking the end grain pieces would be 21-1/4 wide by 4 inches in length. Sometimes looking for trouble isn’t worth it but thought I would ask.
Thanks,
Al

Hi Al, we tried to build up an edhe as you are saying and we found it did not look nice. I think thick solid would be great but its a bit wasteful. If it were me i would probably go with the cherry ply (on a particleboard or mdf core not plywood) and then add a 3/16 solid band all the way around. My two cents

I was thinking gluing top 8” longer and fall offs would be the build up pieces. So the color on edge would be close. But I know the growth rings won’t line up.

Al - I've done quite a few solid wood tops with built up edges in the manner you suggest. I start by gluing up a panel at least 4" wider and longer than the finish size. I try to use the straightest grain boards for the 2 outer edges. After planing and sanding, I rip an equal amount off of both long edges, leaving the panel about 1/4" oversize in width. Then, cut an equal amount off the ends, again about 1/4" oversize. Fold the offcuts against the edge they came from and glue into place. Once the glue is dry, rip an 1/8" off each side and end to clean up the glue line.

I've lots of these in alder, african mahogany, and walnut. The one pictured started out with 5/4 walnut, after all the work I ended up with a 2.25" thick top.

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Duster,
If I understand correctly the front edge is miter folded and then you rip an 1/8” off. So now you don’t have the sharp edge of the miter.

Al - I do not do a miter fold. I simply turn the cut off pieces under the edges of the panel, so the both of the sawn edges match. If you use fairly straight grain boards for the edge, this will create the illusion of a panel that's double the thickness. I've shown these to other experienced woodworkers and they couldn't tell.
The end grain is the only giveaway, but you'd have to know what you're looking for.

I've done a lot of dining, console, and end tables with this method. With a lot of the premium wood species going for over $12 a board foot, this is a good way to build up thick tops without breaking the budget.

Thanks for the good info. Your tops look great.

Thanks Al - here's another one I did in african mahogany with the same method.
I started with 4/4 rough material, I was able to get 1.5" thick for finish.

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