Yes that is the cutter type. The ones I use are from Titan knife works. Not a shear cut but 4 knives and have the rabbiting spurs which you could take off if needed. I would prefer all steel heads but have the aluminum ones, the steel would have more momentum and might run a hair bit smoother.

That is a good choice. The spur cutters will allow you to do grooves very nicely. Always run to an outside fence with minimal clearance to the regular fence. This will do some straightening or the work as ling as you feed it concave to the outboard fence.
I've got two similar heads and sometimes set them up with spacers to make tenons or tongues. As in T&G. The knives last a long time.

We use a set up by Wynmatic it provides an outboard fence, spring loaded fence to replace existing fence and spacer blocks to set the width of the piece. Works great. We are climb cutting with a 4 roll feeder on a Powermatic 27.

Model 100 Stile-Avator

If you get the Wynmatic outboard fence system do not get the fence with it. When i ordered mine, the plastic had way too much play and flex in it so i returned it and made my own fence out of 1/2" baltic birch with laminate edge.

Climb cutting works well but you must be extra careful in your setup. Wax the table & guides so the work moves smoothly. Set the feed tight enough that there is minimal chance of kick back. If you hear something that sounds like a jerky feed, STOP. Kick back is likely. If you do get a kick back it will be very violent and the work will be thrown like a spear. Keep the path clear! For most work use a conventional cut, against the rotation. Climbing works better on wild grained wood.

My fence from them is aluminum center and the delron on the edge no flex. We have not had any kick backs and the cut quality is great on hard maple no tear out. The operator knows to stay out of the path if there was a kick back. We do not use it much any more we have a weinig 5 head molder.

I bought a new Weinig 5 head quite a long while back. Nice machine but I wish I had bought the 6 head version. The first knife grinder I bought from them I didn't like (bottom of the line) I up graded to a better one later. There is a huge advantage in being able to grind to pattern and re-sharpen as needed.

We use a four wing opposite shear head from Dimension in Tooling that I've been very pleased with the performance of.

We use an outboard fence that is adjustable, that rides on 80/20 extrusions on the outside edge of the shaper. Each side has a digital height readout for a planer on it.

Took a while to get everything dialed in, but it works pretty flawlessly. We use it for sticking cuts for door rail and stile, and for sizing sticking and frame parts.

It takes longer than ganging them up in a planer, but the cut quality, zero snipe, and it being basically impossible to make an edge that is anything other than a square offsets the extra time in my opinion.

You shouldn't have to climb cut in most scenarios.

I have been running all my square edge stock this way for almost 30 years. I don't like the shear heads because even though the defect is minor, the nature of having a slanted knife changes the geometry if the cut on the edge of the board and actually cuts a slight convex edge which makes it hard to clamp panel stock flat. I also custom built my own outboard fence using rails made from 80/20 extrusions with their bearings and a digital ruler from Accurate Technologies. I consistently can mill parallel edge stock to .002" - .004" in width.

4-knife, 50mm carbide insert knives for me as well. No shear, edge defects are very rare. We do the same as Dustin and run at one height using half the knife length until dull, Change height until the other half is dull, then flip knives and repeat.