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Subject: Re: Edge detail

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Message Thread:

Edge detail

1/6/20       
Jerry Peifer

Happy New Year

The attached photo was provided by the designer...I’m trying to figure out the best way to edgeband the chamfered edge.
I’ve done a sample with a caul, paper backed veneer and titebond 2 with decent results. Just feel like there’s gotta be a better way. Any thoughts?
Jerry


View higher quality, full size image (744 X 1084)

1/6/20       #2: Edge detail ...
Ex-Pat Member

It depends. Are you veneering your own faces? If so, the way I have done it in the past is to have a 3/4" piece of solid on the top edge, veneer it, cut the chamfer and finally band the edges to hide the end grain solid. Otherwise, I think you are pretty much on the right track.

1/6/20       #3: Edge detail ...
Jerry Peifer

Thanks for the reply ex-pat. I’m not veneering my own panels...Using veneer plywood, edgebanding 3 sides on the bander then cutting chamfer.
I really don’t like contact cement but may make a sample using it. Clamping with the caul is a pain in the butt

1/6/20       #4: Edge detail ...
TonyF

Jerry Peifer:

You don't state how many lineal feet of this you need to do. If it were me, I would edgeband all four sides on the bander, cut the chamfer, take some iron-on edgebanding and iron it to the chamfer, create a flush cutting jig for the table saw to cut the excess banding off of the chamfer that meets the edge, use an edging flush cut tool or a flush cut router setup to cut excess banding off of the chamfer that meets the face. Sand flush, and you are done.

For pre-veneered material, you could cut a rabbet into the material, leaving about 1/16" of the face, glue a solid piece into the rabbet, edgeband and then chamfer. That is a lot of glueup, though, and the core material that would show on the short edge may not be acceptable to the designer.

For what its worth.
TonyF

1/6/20       #5: Edge detail ...
Ex-Pat Member

Sorry, I missed the caul part in the original post. I think Tony's method is about as good as it gets. If iron on edge tape isn't available, brush on some yellow glue on the back of your veneer, let it tack up and then iron it on. I would avoid contact cement. I really don't think it would stand up to the stresses involved seeing as how it is a finger pull. As much of a pain it is going to be to do it once, doing again after it is installed will be worse.

1/6/20       #6: Edge detail ...
MarkB Member

Footage definitely an issue but my tact would be to scrap banding the bevel. Apply a wide enough solid wood edge to the ply, cut to size. Band the three square edges in the bander, and rip the bevel on the saw on the solid wood edge and be done.

1/6/20       #7: Edge detail ...
Jerry Peifer

I don’t know the exact footage but it’s a large house with this finger pull detail everywhere.... so it’s quite a bit.

If you zoom in on the photo, it’s pretty clear that there’s no seam where the chamfer meets the flat spot so i don t think any of the solid wood ideas work. It definitely looks like one continuous piece of veneer...
Really appreciate all the input

1/6/20       #8: Edge detail ...
Alan F.

I don't know the minimum order but it looks similar to this company, maybe buy lengths and then cut and edge.


View larger image

https://www.pentco.com/fullwrap/index.html

1/6/20       #9: Edge detail ...
Alan F.

Her is there order form, looks like you can order doors

https://www.pentco.com/orderforms/FullwrapOrderForm.pdf

1/6/20       #10: Edge detail ...
TonyF

Alan:

Interesting looking product. Have you used this before? I would be curious how it works on a veneered door if the grain needs to run perpendicular to the postformed edge.

TonyF

1/7/20       #11: Edge detail ...
Alan F.

Tony,
I haven't used the company but the picture is obviously a profile wrap.

The order form allows for grain either direction and warranty the product.

They only offer engineered wood so there may not be the stresses in the wrap there would be with a a flitch from a log.

A-

1/8/20       #12: Edge detail ...
Pdub

I would (and have) tell the designer this is a horrible idea and that any edgebanded edge used as a handle, especially in a kitchen will fail in fairly short order...
Yeah I know, they're designers and they don't really care about longevity, just how it looks immediately after the job is completed for their photo shoot.
I hate this "new" trend of non-handles returning! Same with gold plumbing fixtures! Really?!?
grumble grumble grumble

1/9/20       #13: Edge detail ...
tom ruth Member

I would over cut the chamfered top edge until it meets the face. Then calculate the thickness of the veneer (approx 1/4" to 3/8" judging from the photo) that will give you just enough room to cut the narrow top edge so it's almost flush with the drawer face veneer. Glue on this thick veneer and then edgeband the sides I would cut the thin narrow 90 degree top cut last after you veneer the sides.

1/9/20       #14: Edge detail ...
Paul Miller

Website: http://MCCWOODWORKING.COM

We would do it the way Ex-Pat first suggested. The only exception to Ex-Pats way, we would probably use solid wood on all of our edges and let the end grain show on the top, wider band. We normally edge our veneer doors and drawers with 5mm solid wood. We would veneer over made up blanks for doors and drawers. You can control the look. If you want to be a custom shop, do custom work.

1/10/20       #15: Edge detail ...
TonyF

I would totally agree that the method Paul Miller outlines is one way to get the seamless approach and have solid wood for the pull, and this is the way I would approach it if the money was there, but not everyone has the knowledge, skill set, or tooling setup for veneering.

Back before the advent of commonly available vacuum press setups, when veneering was done either with a hot press or a veneer hammer, a lot of shops backed away from veneer work, or used contact cement for veneering, with disaterous results.

Many of the responses here are taking into account the original posters description of using pre-veneered sheet goods, and trying to put forth ideas that would achieve the desired result within those limitations.

In the past, I have rabbeted a lot of pre-veneered pieces, leaving 1/16" of the face, and gluing a block of solid wood in place to accommodate the shaping that required solid wood to be there, and edgeband the rest. It was somewhat labor intensive, but did not require a hot veneer press, so my employers at the time thought it was a good idea, as it also allowed grain matching the face panels without having a piece of solid wood breaking up the flow of the grain.

It can be done differently now that vacuum presses are available and fairly inexpensive, but the work would still be labor intensive.

That edge detail will cost a lot of money, no matter how it is approached. I hope that the original poster has enough in the budget to make money on the job.

Good luck.
TonyF

 

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