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Subject: Re: How I do the fridge box, and can I improve it?

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Message Thread:

How I do the fridge box, and can I improve it?

9/29/22       
Gene Davis

I draw plans for clients and their builders, but used to build, and when I did, got deeply into the cabinet parts of things. We went totally "virtual shop," buying carcases from one source, a CNC-cutter, and fronts, trim, d'boxes from a second source, and the hardware from the usual supply houses.

Always frameless, because it's easiest when you site-build jobs. I use Thermwood'd eCabinets for the builds, after designing the arrangements using Chief Architect. Chief does terrific 3D and is wonderfully efficient doing construction drawings.

For me, reefer boxes are always deeper than standard bases, so to be deep enough to make a regular fridge look built-in, and so the countertop of adjoining base runs resolve into the side panel or panels.

We CNC-cut pocketscrew holes in the side panels to aid in attaching stiles to the front edges, the stiles 1-1/2 wide and 13/16 thick. A top-box goes over the fridge and has an inset-door look because we use full-crank hinges there. The cab-over, the "top box," screws to the reefer panels from the inside. I'd like to hear about alternate ways, because I like to know everything about everything.

I attached a couple pics from a job just sent out for production. The client wanted an applied end on the R of the reefer box, and you can see it in the pic. A detail shows the builder where he uses the only set of full-crank hinges in the whole hardware kit. The 13/16 thickness of the stiles is so the stile faces flush up to the door faces, the doors having 1/16 inch bumpers.


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10/1/22       #3: How I do the fridge box, and can I ...
JK Interior Finish Inc.

IMHO
I would just make a box with standard hinges and make it 7/8 smaller than the panel so it looks the same , keeps it simpler.

10/3/22       #4: How I do the fridge box, and can I ...
Thomas Charles Cabinetry

I thought it was a Frameless box, Separate side panels till I saw your view with an 18mm cranked hinge ? Why make one giant construct ? Separate panels is what we do ... Separate 36" W box with flush with door panels.
Budget job-3/4" White mel panel with applied doors screwed on.
A lot easier to install and scribe side panels.


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10/4/22       #5: How I do the fridge box, and can I ...
Gene Davis

Thanks for that but I don't fully understand.

The reason I do the arrangement with the side panels and the inner top box is that I like the beefier look of the "columns" at each side, done with the full-height 1-1/2 wide stiles that attach to the tall panels. The top case then has the inset-door look.

I admit that look is an anomaly in the whole arrangement of a frameless kitchen, but these reefer boxes stand way proud of what's next, and the look is sort of nice.

Some pics attached. From eCabinets, the side panels with the stretchers that enable installation and the CNC-cut pocketscrew recesses for fixing the stiles, and the top case showing the doors with 7/8" reveal each side.

I typically make the top case 18 inches deep because who can reach the back, anyhow, if it is the depth of the reefer box.

Then two pics to show how the top case inserts like a piston into the large.

These typically go in without applied ends and the big panels are finished to match the fronts finish. In this latest, the client wanted applied stile and rail panels on ends of all runs, thus the one on the R side in the 3D render in post #1.

So can you please give me more detail about your more efficient way?


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