Hi Folks

I am looking for a quick and accurate way to produce miters for production runs of jewellery boxes that will be made from veneered MDF? I have tried the tablesaw with ok results but can be time consumming to setup each time and also means the saw is then tied up with this job.

Thanks Ian

Look for miter fold/V-groover machinery.

Look for miter fold/V-groover machinery.

Have you tried using a shaper? I have a tilting shaper that I do miters on, works way better than any table saw. Normally I do longer pieces with a power feed but you could do shorter with either a sled or sliding table.

Thanks for the replies - the miter fold machine looks great but I have limited space and these look big! might try some mitre fold tests with a bit and my milling machine, slow but if the results are good then perhaps a CNC router.

Ian

Guillotine. Foot operated, often used for clean, very accurate miters for picture frames and glass stops. Quiet, smooth and fast with a mitered length guage for repeat cuts.

I just happen to have a like new Morso that I am trying to sell.....

A well tuned radial armsaw with an appropriate blade and a stop would make short work of this. Don't expect to throw a GP blade on a $50 craftsman saw and get good results though. Nothing wrong with craftsman they just need tuning.

Cutting miter folds with a Vee bit isn't the greatest if that's what you are considering one a CNC router. The point has not cutting action and just plows. If you get a router for this job you will want a tiling aggregate so the bit is cutting over it's entire area. A straight bit held at 45 degrees. The router offers the same advantages as the miter fold machine in that the reference surface of the machine and panel is the same.
I've done miter folds on the router with the V bit, but the veneer wants to fracture at the very place where you want it perfect. Ideally, you put the tape on before cutting.

I produced some test cuts with a miter fold bit using my milling machine and with the depth set to 0.1mm about the spoil board it work very well! ok slow to produce on a mill but with a CNC it should work well>

Thanks Ian

"but with a CNC it should work well"

No it won't, reread Larry's post.

"No it won't, reread Larry's post."

I understand his post but can you explain why it worked on a milling machine?

Because you did not do enough to dull the point. Which is basically pushing the material out of the way at the point.

Ok understood - but how about a long life PCD insert surely that would keep its edge longer?

No, the problem is still the same, the circumference of the router bit at the point is zero.

Ok so either replace the tips every so many or go through to the spoil board by a few mm keeping the tip out of the work. Of course this means it has to be taped after but no a big problem.

The problem is glue squeeze out on the face.

There is this, don't know anything about it.

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