I'd like to do a poll on what toekick construction methods are most popular:

A- Loose Plywood Toekick
B- Leveling Legs
C- Leveling Legs in Front, Wall Cleat in Rear
D-Integral Toekick (Cabinet Sides are notched and go to floor)

We always use A, but for residential, I'm wondering how many people use B through D.

Thanks in advance for your input.

A

B

C

B

A. I seem to get a much better yield out of the materials since changing to this method. I can shim cabinets level and then apply finished toe board after.

A

B

A +1 on the material yield not to mention how much easier it is to shim and level a detached kick.

We use C and A for islands and peninsulas. Herttich makes a excellent leg. We tested it with 800lbs on our standard leg and it was flawless. We don't use the clips, just silicone the toe face to the foot. Hope that helps!

A ,, All commercial

Thanks everyone so far....the results have been interesting.

Jr Lee, and Sam:

What are you using for a cleat in the rear? 3/4" plywood? or something thicker?

A except for higher end stuff were I use D and charge for it

D.

A for Islands, B for most everything else

Gary
Most of the jobs have been frameless so I use just the 3/4 inch scrap from the sheet goods. I use the same screws that are used to hang the cabinets for the rear ledger
Jr

Gary

We ship lengths of 8' 3/4" ply with the job and installers cut to suite.

Cheers!

We use loose toe kicks (ladder method). Used to use leg levelers but they were expensive and my guys had a hard time making finished ends look clean. The ladders get easily nested into our sheets and almost never require more than one extra sheet. I have CV set up to cut back toes and sleepers out of the cheaper material in the schedule and only use the good stuff for toe faces and side toes.

It would be cool if there was a little do-dad that attached to the inside 4 corners of the kick and allowed you to easily level it off. Anyone ever see anything like that?

We cut the length of the ladder to what is needed and 3.25" wide. the stretcher is .5 up from bottom this allows with some scribe up and down to be as much as 1" if some shimming is required.

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I'm sure you have reasons for doing this the you do.

If you are going to scribe the toe kicks I would add a loose face so that the installer only has to scribe the face. Then screw from behind.

Being all commercial 95% of the time it is Base by others !

Which begs the question why bother with the extra material and labor in your detail?

John,

One method I've seen is to take the ladder toe kicks and shim them to the level and the desired height. Then take some 4" x 4" cutoffs of the same plywood, and screw them to the inside of the ladder frame, tight to the floor...then pull out your shims, and move on.

Me too, it is well worth the time to do it this way.

Good Point.

After shimming We do what Gary does

D

100 % residential we will use option A on an island if we need to turn it on its side to get through the front door.

We can't be the only ones using integral toe kicks can we?

I also use D, just my preference and habit. I have used A but was never real fond of having to screw through the bottom of a cabinet to attach to the leveled ladderbox/toekick if it was going to be exposed. But if there are drawers in the bottom then it would be okay.

The one time that I used B it was at the customers request, but I have had to go back and replace broken clips for the toekick a couple of times.

B except in the islands A