i have a question about using standard primed 3.5" MDF door/window molding (w/ same profile in the image) in rail and style configuration over beadboard.

my problem is how to create the vertical stiles (i can use standard trim because the horizontal pieces only need 1 edge routed); i found a router bit that matches the trim profile, so i can make the vertical stiles using 3.5" wide strips of ~1/2" MDF (planed to same thickness) w/ both left and right sides routed.

however, i'd like to cut the inverse profile for the top and bottom pieces of the vertical stiles so they just sort of melt into the rails (very similar as to how raised panel doors are made).

simply put: can i buy a router bit that is basically just the inverse profile of the router bit to which i linked (or do i have to just get creative using several different router bits to make it)?

let me know if anything needs clarified. thanks!

It appears that you are describing what is called 'cope and stick joinery'. Stick being the profile that comes out of a sticker or molder, and is on the edges. Cope being the opposite profile and is on the ends of rails. Or female cut, if you are into the whole gender specific thing. It is also called stile and rail paneling.

Cope and stick sets are available for shapers and larger equipment. There are a few patterns in router bit, 1/2" tooling, usually lighter in profile as used for window sticking.

Typically, cope and stick tooling is used with a mortise and tenon to complete a joint. You are describing a mock or fake joint, buy you do see the benefit of the cope joint.

I suggest you rethink the project and use solid wood with mortise joints and cope and stick joinery. This will reward your efforts with fine woodwork instead of some stapled mdf that has just stopped by on its way to the landfill.

Simply put: you can have a router bit made for any profile, to your specifications. There are several advertisers here on Woodweb that would be happy to set you up.

thanks for the prompt advice; i'm going to reconsider my options, now.

just out of curiosity, are there any scenarios wherein you might prefer the "cope and stick" method to traditional wainscoting (if you could be assured that the cope and stick joints would keep tight and age well)?

thanks again.

You have at least two other options, if you are motivated. You can create cope and stick joints from a single router bit if the pattern is a mirror image around the mid-point. You run the sticking face down against the bearing, and the cope face up with the bearing flush with the front face of the fence.

Another way is to use a jack miter.

John

View higher quality, full size image (3648 X 2736)

View higher quality, full size image (3648 X 2736)

View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)

David and others have answered the issue but apparently you haven't entertained yourself with the manuf. catalogs where browsing will find for you the similar or perhaps matching cutters you need off the shelf.

David, it's funny you should mention this way of mitering, i just saw this a few hours ago in a random video (it was about odd woodworking techniques and tools used in making cabinets in Asia). i'll see if that works for me. as far as the router bit being a mirror image, i don't think it is; however, this time i just uploaded the picture of the router bit and profile, so hopefully you can now see it tell me if i'm wrong about it not being able to be used to mirror my trim w/ the same bit.

also, Steve, i'm now looking through some router bit catalogs to see if i can find what i need. pouring through hundreds of bits seemed almost impossible before i knew it was an ogee bit (and inverse) that i was looking for.

thanks again, everyone. i wasn't expecting such a quick response; i'm very appreciative for the help!

View higher quality, full size image (600 X 600)

i think this is what i'm looking for (a double door cutter router bit set), although for what i am planning, the lower mortise and tenon portion wouldn't be necessary (because i would basically just be coping the inverse profile of the MDF trim i was planning on using). i hope that makes sense.

View higher quality, full size image (720 X 720)

John, just a question of curiosity. Your third pic looks like it was made with a beaded face frame bit as part of a Beaded Face Frame Jig (Kreg) or perhaps others, given both the two matching radii and the width of the rail insert?

Steve, the miters were cut with my RAS, not a face frame bit like the Kreg you mentioned. You cut the miters, then use a dado blade or router to clean out the waste. No reason a flat bottom 45 deg router bit wouldn't work, too, I just don't have one.

I think jack miters was how it was done long ago, before cope and stick was invented. I've used the same approach for fitting stile/rail joints on doors.

John

you can cut your mitres on the table saw then clean out between and have a mortise and tennon joint without buying a cutter set. Or run any profile you want then do the mitered profile

View higher quality, full size image (809 X 609)

Well, Warren while I don't want to hijack this thread I appreciate your showing this beaded frame's results. I struggled with doing these on the saw etc as you have described without satisfactory results so I gave up and bought the Kreg jig when it was first introduced around 2008 or 09, and I have to give you credit for the fine work particularly with multiple rails. I notice you have produced haunched tenons which adds to the production steps. Thank you for showing that.