I'm trying to set up a power feeder (for the first time) and am thinking the rubber wheels should be parallel to the table. Is this correct? I've read the manual from cover to cover and can't find anything addressing this. Right now the drive wheels are slightly canted which means the corner of the wheel hits first which doesn't seem right to me. I would think you would want the whole surface to grab at the same time? I've monkeyed with all the adjustments but just am having a hard time getting there.

You will want to turn the feeder a slight amount so that it will drive the workpiece against the fence. A degree or two.
I have made it a habit to do a final check of all the clamping locations on the feeder and fence then hand spin the shaper arbor just before start up.

Sounds like you need to lower the feeder all the way down to the table and then adjust it flat, lock it in position and raise it to the desired height then it will be flat to the materials.

I don't think there's a rigid "right way for all situations".

However, generally speaking, you want the wheels parallel to the work table like D. Brown said.

Regarding how it's oriented against the rip fence---- Tom is definitely right, you want it canted slightly such that it forced the material up against the fence. From a top-down view on a tablesaw, it will look like the rear of the feeder points toward the fence a couple degrees.

Too much angle = excessive roller wear.

Thanks, guys! Yes, I already have it slightly angled so that it will drive the piece back toward the fence, It's just getting it so that the flat surface of the rollers themselves is parallel with the table. That's the adjustment I can't seem to figure out...I don't want to chew the rollers prematurely and I want the full surface of the rollers to "bite" for safety sake.

Whew! I think I mostly got figured out now. It was a combination of two adjustments and sneaking up on it. I think I will make some orientation marks so I won't have to go through that again if I have to remove it later. Still not perfect but acceptable.

I can tell from here - you are over thinking it.

Remove the cutter(S) and disconnect the machine. Set up fences and feeder, and prep some 'stock' to run. 3-4 sizes of stock should do.

You will discover how to set the machine in less than 15 minutes. If it is still a puzzle, you need to find other work.

I am a bit of a perfectionist - some would even tease that I'm on the ocd side. But, we've never had any major accidents and have a very long string of more than satisfied clients for over 20 years. I like safety and I like to see machinery working as it should.

OCD! Welcome to the club. I love to run accurate set-ups and will often seen way too much time trying to achieve things that may not matter in the larger sense.

P:ewer feeders are not absolute critters. They are soft rubber in the world of hard machinery. Try running stock (samples as in my previous response) with the body parallel to both table and fence. Then try a few offsets to see how your stock moves. I think you will always want the wheels parallel to the table. And I'll bet you will have a slight - 1/8" to 1/4" offset relative to eat fence. This will pull your stock in tight to the fence and hold it for a great cut.
I cannot say enough good things about power feeders. They simply do a lot better job than I can do, and don't get tired or bored.

This might scare you off, but we often use the feeders in a climb cut situation. Thats, the wood is traveling thru the shaper in the same direction as the cutter is rotating.

Climb Cuts are not for the faint of heart or weak of mind. Smaller cuts tearing out along an edge is when we do it. Larger cuts - we feed conventionally. A power feeder can do the climb cuts if you need it, just be aware that smaller cuts are better than large, heavy cuts. Also, do not stand by the (normal) indeed area, in case a piece decides to come out at increased speed. Increased, like a rocket.

There is a reason they make the hubs out of aluminum . If you have employees setting it up day in and day out get ready to see it swing into the knife when not tightend down correctly. Once the new has worn off it wont bother you when it happens and you might even think its better with the center wheel milled down in size ( lets you set up closer to knife from then on) LOL

I find most power feeders need to be canted down slightly on the outboard side because when you feed your stock under the first roller there is enough flex or slop in the mechanism to have the back roller lift out of parallel. As mentioned enough cant towards the fence to keep the stock tight to the fence.

Stewart, what is a bit more difficult is when you need to run the feeder wheels pointing to the fence down close to the table to run an upright profile crown or whatever. That takes even a little more set up time .