I used double refined PlumCreek and spray the machined areas with clear precat lacquer reduced 50% then sand the raised areas on a Larick profile sander prior to assembly, then go with regular finish schedule.

Plum Creek/Weyerhaeuser double refined MDF is what I use. I spray MLC Clawlock on the bevel a little heavier than I should and let it dry so it powders when you sand it back hard.

Then do your normal finishing schedule.

Thanks form the input. It seems like Plum Creek double refined is popular choice. It's just that after so many times in homes seeing raised panels either below sink, at dishwasher panels or even down at any area where the owners or cleaning staff accidentally leave excess water on the top horizontal raised lip there can be swelling after time. I know the finishing process should take care of this but it's not a perfect world. Double refined does not have any water resistant resins in the core and Medex is supposedly a double refined product. Also in regards to the PVA duluted mixture any idea the ratio?

I find that MEDEX acts like double refined until you mill it. The inside acts like normal MDF that sucks up the finish. I was pleased the first time I used it that the surface only needed one coat of primer like the Plum Creek. But once milled you have to work it like normal MDF.

I would suggest using the MEDEX only where you think it's needed. Under the sink and at a prep station. The rest you can use the Plum Creek to make your life easier.

Normal MDF got two coats of MLC Clawlock, both sanded back hard before they are put into the door frames. Then finish as normal. I suspect the same for the MEDEX.

Anybody ever try using wood for raised panels?

MDP is a superior product for paint in my opinion.

You use Medium Density Particle Board for raised panels? I can't see that being easier than MDF style products.

Please elaborate.

Karls response was my default but if your needing dead smooth, no glue lines telegraphing in the panel, no woodgrain telegraphing, it sucks but it is what it is. If I had to run some water resistant material or process for a wet cab I'd just move that to every RP door period.

When I apprenticed in the trade in my teends (80's) it was pounded in that particle board, press board, whatever you want to call it, was dog $hit, and now 30+ years later, I guess with more advanced glue and manufacturing,.... fashion always repeats and we are again regurgitating particle board/mdf/pressboard on the masses.

Sucks to pay the bills with the acceptable standard but it is what it is.

Didnt read the thread and will later. Gerry Metz always pushed Glue size and so did the old guys I knew. Metz used glue and old guys sprayed on a mix with sanding sealer or other stuff. I think Metz sponged it on and maybe 1:7 was his ratio. I had times where i had to do a fair bit of MDF stuff and it did make a difference.

One lac supplier told me way back to greatly reduce the first coat, sand lots lots to most of it off, then second coat is really your first normal primer coat. I was doing ply stuff at the time and using Ml Campbell then before Becker and it worked well on the ply doing that. Filled the pores.

Anything other than spraying what your normally spraying sounds like a gloppy mess. A brush has zero place in my bankroll for MDF work.

I do whatever is faster and or works better based on the work.

I can't imagine sanding glue saturated mdf goes well. You are painting. Use paint to seal it. BIN, catalyzed primer's and the like seal the grain. Then you are sanding primer.

Back in the day when mdf first appeared, people would fill the coarse grain with wall compound & bondo. They would also glue size it and put piles of paint on it to fill the grain.

Double refined changed everything. Use paint.

So in conclusion if I use double refined I still need to follow the same prep as MDF or Medex correct? Or is double refined a miracle and if I use it I can just do a good sanding? If I still need to do same prep I will opt for water resistant Medex to avoid any possible swelling later if a panel is dinged or chipped. Ratio of PVA to water is 40% water to 60% glue? That's what I heard earlier but just now 1:7 ? I like the thought of sponging it on for time but a brush might be less messy.

I don't sand after milling. It goes straight for priming of the bevel. I also do the back so the color gets on the tongue of the panel so if there is any movement you don't get a bare line. Plus I have my thickness of my tongue setup to take two coats of primers added thickness of about 4 thou.

I found that sanding the raw Plum Creek to not help out at all for the 1st prime coat. Another reason to prime the panel out of the frame is ease of sanding the bevel