I'm pretty new to sliding table saws and we have a holzher 1243 sliding saw. I have been getting a lot of contradicting statements on the best way to use it from the people I work with. I only use it once in a blue moon because the cnc cuts most parts and I work mostly on specialty parts.

The cross cut fence is in the front and I can cross cut fine by putting the end of the rip fence at the front of the saw blade. My issue is ripping full sheets length wise.

I was taught to put the rip fence well past the end of the blade and use the cross cut fence at the same time. It's hard for me to keep the panel flat against the rip fence at the end of the cut without pushing the offcut into the back of the blade. The owner said I should reach over the gaurd/dust shroud and push the with my right hand toward the end of the cut?
In relation to cutting full sheets;

Do you reach over the blade guard?

Where are you focusing/putting pressure?

Where do you locate your rip fence?

Are you pushing toward the rip fence, toward the crosscut fence or both?

Any other tips or things I might need to know when using a slider is welcomed.

I would appreciate any help as I'm trying to be safe and efficient.

I know this seems silly but I honestly hate this machine right now and dread anytime I have to use it.

Ripping:
Right fence should be in normal position with the end closest to you about 6 " sticking out in line with the bar where it locks down.
Rip panel with pressure onto the rip fence but use the slider to move the material. Crosscut fence has no bearing on this operation and you don't need it.

Crosscut:
If your part is 4" wide and you want to cut 400 of them at say 400mm long, move the right fence back so the front end is equal to the front of the blade. That way the piece does not bind.
Wide crosscut, the right fence has no business in that operation unless you are doing may repeat cuts and use it as a stopper.

Also when ripping, use it like a regular tables how you push the piece through. If you are splitting a sheet lengthwise, use the slider to carry move your sheet. You will love it soon. Don't over think it.

Here is another example of cross cutting solids. Note cross cut fence orientation

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I have always been told, and followed the practice of never using the standard rip fence in conjunction with the slider to rip parts. The standard rip fence would have at least some amount of toe in it so depending on where you locate the fence (front to back) your dimensions will not be accurate as your panel will be registering against the retracted (in-feed) end of the fence which, with toe, would make your part narrower than your fence setting.

I may be wrong but I believe this is why euro sliders often use a rear fence on the slider for ripping parts narrower than your comfortable registering against the cross cut fence.

My work around for this when doing precise work where I want to use the rip fence as a stop has been to have a finger on the rip fence that gives you a single point of reference for the sheet to register against but the slider is still the calibrating component of the operation.

In my world since owning sliders if your going to use the rip fence you lock the slider and shove the sheet as you would conventionally (remove the cross cut fence). The slider would typically have a very slight toe to the left of the blade, and the rip fence would have a very slight toe to the right which means the two are fighting each other. Not saying I dont do it on occasion just because the slider carries the weight of the sheet but as youve found you can find yourself fighting the slider wanting to pull the sheet off the rip fence even very slightly.

Its subtle. But what I find most in this situation is a slightly convex cut.

Wasnt critique'ing your setup in the least Dave. I was more speaking to the Op asking about ripping full sheets without having to reach over the guard to shove the off-cut (kinda defeats the bonus of a slider). If I have to accurately break down full sheets on the slider (I trust the slider, I dont really care to trust the rip fence) I eliminate the rip fence to be anything other than a stop.

The euro way and melding it to the US way of breaking down sheets is never a pretty combination.

I do rip with the sliding table moving but without the sheet registered to the crosscut fence. It requires that I keep light side pressure on the sheet in the area just in front of the blade to ensure that the sheet stays in contact with the rip fence. Hand transfers to the right side of the sheet in the final foot or two of the cut so I don't close the kerf on the blade. All rips start with a squaring cut and cleanup rip all done on the slider.
I do all my sheet rips on the slider down to 18" width and unless I am careless I get width accuracy of 1/32" from a full 8' rip.

Mark B Roger that, no prob. Thomas G, that sounds like what I do for panels.

I basically do why Thomas said and Dave. Once you get a system it works great. I’ve cut tons of 4 by 8s and occasionally 5 by 9s. Those require an second guy to handle. But another thing I’ll mention that I think is one of the most important things on a slider is a hold down of some type. Make things much easier and. A much nicer cut

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There is zero difference between using a slider and a regular table saw. You would never use a miter gauge and the fence at the same time. The geometry would have to be absolutely perfect for there not to be an issue. Even if you could get the blade, miter fence, & fence working together(which you won't). The real limiting factor is the material. It's not flat straight or square enough.

Reaching behind the saw blade with your hand is wrong.
Use a well made push stick that is sized for the specific thing you are pushing past the blade. Not one of those plastic one size fits all push sticks.

Alternatively it makes a great holder for a "For Sale" sign, with the carriage locked and crosscut fence in the front position
Then replace it with a Striebig
YMMV

Jim,

I absolutely agree with you. The combination of a Striebig & a decent 10" cabinet saw is hard to beat.

I know that some frown upon ripping solids on a slider but push a ton (literally) of 8/4 through the saw at a time and would miss the hp and stock support of the slider if I were to go back to a cabinet saw.
BTW I am very jealous of Dave when he scored his S4S machine.

Same camp here with solids on the slider. Glue line rips straight off the saw. Even feeder break down. CNC in the shop so panels on the slider is rare. Its pretty much a solids machine at this point. But in a stricktly panel shop I can see the Vertical and a small footprint TS (or 2 or 3 with dedicated setups).

Thomas, here's a couple of glam shots of the s4s for ya.
Sexy beast! Can't show too much cause that's on my Only Fans channel.

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