Hi there.

I have a 1991 Altendorf F45 panel saw. I am asking for help as to the sequence of adjusting and aligning the various adjustments.

I had a tech come in initially to get it in the ballpark but I feel I can go from there and do a more accurate adjustment myself with some advice.

At the moment when I move the sliding table all the way to place a sheet in for cutting(start of sliding), just back from the scribing blade, the Sliding Table is higher than the Machine Table by about .7mm.

When I move the Sliding Table to the middle, just before the scribe, the Sliding Table measures .23mm lower than the Machine Table

When I move the Sliding Table to the end, the Sliding Table is .7mm higher than the Machine Table. I have included some pics for discussion.

Altendorf describes the sliding table into 3 parts, Top carriage(Sliding Table), Middle Carriage and Undercarriage. I think the Undercarriage can only be laterally adjusted for toe in and out and maybe it can be shimmed for up and down but not sure.

I have a suspicion that the White carriage stabilizer wheels need adjusting each end and middle.

With all that said do I adjust in the following sequence.....

1 - Level machine ( Take level from the Sliding Table?)
2 - Adjust Carriage rollers
3 - Adjust toe out between the Sliding Table and the Saw blade(Machine Table) by adjusting Bottom Carriage.
4 - Adjust Machine Table to be Co Planner to the Sliding Table
5 - Set Sliding Table .3mm higher than Machine table(as desrcibed in the manual)
6 - Adjust the Rip Fence parallel to the Saw blade with toe out.
7- Adjust Cross Fence square with Saw blade.

All comments appreciated.

View higher quality, full size image (1000 X 451)

View higher quality, full size image (1000 X 451)

View higher quality, full size image (1000 X 451)

I would start with levelling the fixed table of the saw first. Next I think I would align the carriage travel parallel to the saw blade.
Before you start setting the height of the sliding table check the condition of the nylon bearing wheels. There is probably a spec for acceptable diameter online or you can just measure the difference in what you have. They are a wear item so you might want to replace them. Also check the condition of the phenolic ways on the underside of the table and on the table support. One clapped out saw I worked on was so badly worn in the centre that I couldn't take up the slop in the mid stroke without the saw binding at the ends.
I can't remember how to raise the carriage or table but you never want the slider dropping below the fixed table. Before you shim the table run the slider through its stroke with a sensitive level at right angle to the blade. If the level changes through the stroke then the outrigger pivot arm height needs adjustment.
Get the slider above the fixed table by .3mm then adjust the rollers on the ends to keep the table close to that gap. The load on the slider will influence this.

Thank you Tom.

I am ordering the new wheels before I go further as you suggested. I will also buy a dial gauge so I can properly measure the run off.

Before going too far into the alignment check the condition of the phenolic strips with a straight edge. If they are wallowed out you will have trouble with the slider height.
This can be dangerous. When I made my first cuts with an old saw I bought, the edge of the board rubbed on the outfeed of the fixed table as I pushed it through on the slider. I cut fence foreward and the friction caused kick back. I was able to shim to raise the slider.
It will be a pain when cutting with scoring and when trying to cut mitres.

I think the phenolic strips are alright as the cuts are quite good. I am really just fine tuning to get the very best out of the machine. I think I have determined that the carriage is about .3mm out from the machine table. I may have to shim. I will wait until the dial gauge comes to confirm this.