Good afternoon.

After many years of using a flat table for cabinet parts I'm migration to a beam saw and pod and rail (Too much other stuff for the flat table).

I want to cut the panels a little oversize and cut to size and drill on the pod and rail.

What is the best type of bit to use for this? A 1/2 mortise compression will allow me to do the sizing and rabbeting but I wonder if there are special sizing bits that last longer and give a better edge.

Thanks in advance.

Why would a pod and rail bit be different than a flat table?

Because I'm just taking 3mm off the edges, not cutting out the shape.

I don't work on a pod and rail CNC either, but I would expect that a compression bit in the largest comfortable diameter would be the "right" tool for the job. You can push a half-inch diameter bit ridiculously fast, if not held back by other parameters (fixturing, vacuum, acceleration, etc.)

Look for one with the slippery coating, or go full PCD.

It would easier to give help if we knew what type of sheet goods you are cutting.

Hi rich.

Particle board/melamine and baltic birch.

what is the advantage of cutting something oversize on a beam saw?
We go from beam saw to bander to PTP.
If you beam saw is adjusted correctly no need to trim parts on PTP.

Why not just put a saw aggregate on your pod and rail?

Compression bits are what the majority use for outer profile cuts. One way to extend life on a compression bit is to oscilate the bit on on linear profile cuts. Ramp up and down as the bit cuts linearly. This technique distributes wear and extends tool life. When using a compression bit you are limited to the length of the grind for the up spiral portion.
Hope this helps!
Mark T

Good idea mark

I still don't understand we get better edges from our panel saw than an edge on a router. why do you need to recut the outside edges of the panel on the PTP?

In some instances we can't even be 1mm out of square so we want to square the panel up.

How many axis machine is this pod and rail, 3 or 5?

3.

Dropout,

Some good advice here. The only time I've seen people go to the P2P after the saw for a perimeter cut was after post laminating the faces (HPL or veneer). If you're not doing something in between the saw and P2P that makes it necessary, you're over-processing, and it's costing you money. If the saw it out of tune, tune it up, etc.

But, to answer your question, a large diameter compression is a good bet. A better option is something like the Leuco P system bit. Diamond and high shear angle leave an impressive finish with as fast a feed rate as your machine will handle.

WHY???
A beam saw will cut your material perfectly all the time, unless you are buying an old one from a auction, even then when tuned up will be better.
It will be square, and have a way better edge to accept banding, than a pod and rail every day of the week.
Pod and rail is great for sizing wood doors or something where you glue it up and it might be a hair out of square or a hair oversized, but not great for sheet goods.