CNC

You are not logged in. [ Login ] Why log in
(NOTE: Login is not required to post)

Post a Response
The staff at WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at any WOODWEB Forum. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.
Your Name:
Your Website:
Email Address:
Subject: Re: new to me cnc

Message:

(read message guidelines).
Note: Do not use the below fields to advertise your business - only for links related to the discussion.
Thread Related Link URL:
Thread Related Link Title:
  To "point" to an image (picture) from another website, provide the URL (Web Address) of the file ( include ONE reference to http:// )
Thread Related Image URL:

Date of your Birth:

Upload a Thread Related File:
File Types: Image (gif-jpg-png-bmp), PDF, Sketchup, Video (mov avi wmv mpeg mpg mp4 ogg). (Image Upload Tips)

I have read the Site User Agreement and agree with the Terms

  <= Check to receive e-mail notification of responses

Message Thread:

new to me cnc

2/4/21       
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Well I did a thing... Ive been wanting to go cnc for a long time now, but it has always been out of reach financially, and in my thinking outside of my capabilities. My other excusewas that my shop is extremely low production, just 1 1/2 guys, 8-12 jobs per year...

Between reading here and joining the cnczone forum 5 years ago I mustered up the guts to take a risk on an older, very basic, cnc router that I found for what seems to be a swinging deal ($4600 after tax) I have attached pictures. It is a year 2000 machine with very low use. It has HIWIN guides and THK ball screws on all axis, and weighs almost a ton. THe controller is a now obsolete Ah-Ha unit that is still working well. I have hooked it up to a new computer and am now running it on a program called UCCNC, which is like Mach 3 from what ive read. As of now I have only come as far as jogging the machine, and the z axix looks as if Im going to have to replace the stepper motor, but so far Im kinda happy with my beginners purchase.


View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)


View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)


View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)

2/4/21       #2: new to me cnc ...
Mark B Member

Congrats. Id imagine you'll soon be looking into replacing that router motor with a spindle. For the size of the machine I suppose the price isnt to bad other than persevering through auctions. You may think about connection with someone like Gary Campbell at GCnc as you upgrade.

Welcome to the whirlpool

2/4/21       #3: new to me cnc ...
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Thanks Mark. It was an ebay auction and I took a leap of faith and bought it only having seen pics and talking with the guy selling it. Yeah the router will go for a tool changer eventually, and probably faster motors ect.. at that time. I think for now Im focused on getting all of the axis settings correct(totally learning), and that dang Z axis issue solved. after that I will be beating the dead horse of how to set up a single phase vacuum table that works... Right now we have quite a bit of work, so Im only able to work on it an hour or two at a time at the end of the day.

2/5/21       #4: new to me cnc ...
james e mcgrew  Member

Website: mcgrewwoodwork.com

My first machine was a 1998 "Bill Hog" WH much the same as you have there. I had mine upgraded to the current controller version , new computer and motors Belts checked etc. made enough money to sell it to a sign shop (it is still running) in Florida.

I then purchased my first new machine with ans ATC. the reason i tell you this is it is cost and value prohibitive to convert this machine to an ATC, can it be done :Yes" should it be? Well only if passion or money outweigh common sense.

Strong machine with cut cabinets and i do miss it sometimes !

2/5/21       #5: new to me cnc ...
Mark B Member

Im not a machine builder but I would echo what James mention's. Ive watched several machine builds from scratch a few including ATC and the hard part will be spindle, rack, making it all work, vac table, in combination with what you've already got in the machine, and you will be well into the price range you could snatch up a probably like-new used machine from someone who is upgrading that is fully turn-key.

Its easy to lose track and in short order be in for the cost of a far more robust machine while having a frankenmonster. But you'll surely learn a lot along the way.

2/5/21       #6: new to me cnc ...
jonathan mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Thanks Jim and Mark! Ji, ive actually been reading your posts for a long time and its partly the inspiration for me buying this machine. Funny you should mention WH machines as I have actually been looking for one, as their power requirements are low. My shop only has single phase power up to 50 amps, so the heavier iron just wont work in my current situation. When I say tool changer, im not talking an HSD with a 10 position rack. more along the lines of this
http://www.midwestrapidtool.com/AutomaticToolChanger.htm or an air drill...

and Im all ears on ideas for a vac table

2/5/21       #7: new to me cnc ...
james e mcgrew  Member

Website: mcgrewwoodwork.com

The man who built these is still around, I can get you his number he is still in GA messing with machines

What is the surface of the machine now. some of these were built a sign machines and the gantry runs completly across under machine. you would have to drill holes thru frame to pipe a vacuum seriously crank it up use it then look at what you have . can you em me a phot of the controller screen ?


View higher quality, full size image (480 X 320)

2/5/21       #8: new to me cnc ...
jonathan mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Jim you are correct there are two cross bars running across the underside. this machine was originally cutting polymer shelving for high temp electronics ovens. Im ok with boring holes through the frame as long as it wont weaken anything. Theres no makers mark on this machine, so ive had the hardest time identifying what is what, for the motor settings ect... for uccnc. The original pc was missing, so I dont know if the uccnc screen shot will help

2/5/21       #9: new to me cnc ...
james e mcgrew  Member

Website: mcgrewwoodwork.com

em me a mcgrew six 3 six at msn dot com

send me some piccs of under the table , the controller (inside) and any other tid bits,, I might can tell you some helpful stuff my guess is uccnc software is married to its controller


View higher quality, full size image (969 X 929)

http://https://cncdrive.com/index.html

2/5/21       #10: new to me cnc ...
james e mcgrew  Member

Website: mcgrewwoodwork.com

looks like they may have built this machine

http://shop.cncdrive.com/index.php?categoryID=89

2/5/21       #11: new to me cnc ...
jonathan mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

The table is aluminum. Ive attached pictures of the motor control box which still works amazingly...

Again any help I can get is great as I dont know very much...


View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)


View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)


View higher quality, full size image (640 X 480)

2/5/21       #12: new to me cnc ...
rich c

I question the 2,000 pound estimate, but from what I see, I would definitely add some angle bracing in the base. Either that or anchor it to a wall. I think you'll find a lot of machine wiggle from higher travel speeds to feed speeds. I'd also would recommend side plates on the z axis aluminum. You'll get flex in that plate because of that long reach. Especially when you put on a spindle. It will be an okay starter, but as said, don't put all that money in it. Keep it as a second machine when you buy a real commercial machine.

2/5/21       #13: new to me cnc ...
jonathan mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Thanks Rich. I did say almost a ton. my guess is between 15-1800 lbs. Behind that aluminum plate on the Z are a pair of Hiwin Rails as well. I really dont see a lot of flex happening there, but maybe. also there are two more long rows of boxtube under the table that are not seen, adding to weight and rigidity. So far the only time it has wiggled from start,stop at speed is before I leveled the legs to the floor. I do agree that there is a limit to what I should spend on this. But as far as i can see, if I keep the total price(including original purchase) under 12k, im in the win. There are no american made machines in a 4x8 in that price range, and from what ive seen in shopping for used, is that the big Iron all need repairs and upgrades just like this little guy, only all of their parts are proprietary and more expensive. Not to mention most of them appear to be used pretty hard in a production environment. Also theres no way a biesse rover will fit in my shop nor do I have near enough power going to my building.

2/7/21       #14: new to me cnc ...
rich c

I've run a CNC for around 20 years, I think you said you haven't. But if you don't trust my experience, that's up to you. A rail doesn't add strength because it's thin. You need width of material to add bending strength. I was an engineer at Caterpillar for 16 years, I know structural design and finite element analysis to engineer strength. I also ride bicycles for a hobby. I know that if there is no triangulation in the structure, it's not rigid.

2/8/21       #15: new to me cnc ...
jonathan mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Rich. You are correct I have zero experience,that just didnt strike me as a bending point... so you are saying I should add an aluminum plate gusset to the face of the router plate at a perpendicular angle to make the plate itself more stiff?

2/8/21       #16: new to me cnc ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net

You can build your own relatively inexpensive through vac hold down system with sheets of 3/4" PVC (think Azek) and vacuum motors from Lighthouse enterprises.

I set my old Precix router up with four separate PVC grids and a vac motor below each one. Four switches allow me to run any of the 4 zones I need.

This is just a fun retirement machine but I am confident that shy of heavy 12 hour a day/6 or 7 day a week use the vac motors will do the job well for many years.

BH Davis


View higher quality, full size image (3264 X 2448)


View higher quality, full size image (3264 X 2448)


View higher quality, full size image (2048 X 1536)

2/8/21       #17: new to me cnc ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net

A couple more photos.

Also, I wouldn't worry too much about rigidity of that table.....at least until it shows to be a problem. Looks plenty solid to me for that class of machine..

BH Davis


View higher quality, full size image (3264 X 2448)


View higher quality, full size image (3264 X 2448)

2/8/21       #18: new to me cnc ...
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Thanks B.H. do you happen to have any links to info on building a vac table. Is there a file that I could download for cutting the grid ect...

Also, why is plastic better for the grid, as opposed to HDF or something like that?

2/8/21       #19: new to me cnc ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net

You need a sheet product that is non-porous for the grid. MDF, HDF etc. while inexpensive are porous products. PVC is not porous. So while PVC is more expensive than the fiber based products it is substantially less expensive than aluminum or phenolic which are both non-porus and machinable sheet stock.

I'll see what I can dig up for you with regard to product links and cut files.

The shop vac motors have been widely used for hold down in the ShopBot world for many years. I have to confess that is where I originally learned of them. I've made a couple systems with them and both are still running strong.

BH Davis

2/8/21       #20: new to me cnc ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net

Here is one photo of the completed grid system. You can see more photos at the link below.

The vac motors are available through Lighthouse Enterprises. The motors he sells for this are his own design with long lasting brushes. Ballpark $135 each. I used 4 of the LLH7123-13 motors at 230v. One is mounted below each of my 4 independent zones.

https://www.centralvacuummotor.com/lighthouse.htm

Ward Bartsch is the fellow and he's very helpful.

A bunch of cut files went into making the grid panels and vac motor brackets. Let me know when you are ready and we can get together on the phone to figure out if any of these will be helpful. I think they will as UCCNC uses basic G-code which is what all these file use. I'm right now in the process of building a new UCCNC based control for my router. I'm at the point of tuning the servos so am pretty close to its being ready to run the machine.

BH Davis


View higher quality, full size image (3024 X 4032)

Vac Hold Down Photos

2/8/21       #21: new to me cnc ...
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Rad. Thanks B.H.

2/8/21       #22: new to me cnc ...
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

B.H. Do you happen to have any insight on how/where to begin with motor settings. in UCCNC. I have read the entire UCCNC manual, but theres not much there. I know your servos will be different than my steppers, but since my machine came with no info on the ball screws ect... Im a little lost. I think I made some basic calculations, but Im just stabbing in the dark.

2/8/21       #23: new to me cnc ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net

I'm afraid I'm in much the same boat as you. That is I too am stumbling around in the dark trying to get the servos tuned. I've watched a bunch of videos and have an idea of what needs to get done but can only get close. I'm going to be calling in some help.

However many years ago I had a couple stepper motor routers. What I'm remembering is the primary item to deal with was the resolution. I think in the UCCNC Configuration window that would be the STEPS PER UNIT. I'd be inclined to start with that somewhere in the 1000 to 1500 range and see what you get. ACCELERATION could start at around 500 and again see what happens. I'd probably leave everything else alone as a starting point.

If the router moves with these settings then create a file that drills 4 holes at the corners of a 3' to 4' square. Repeat the file 10 times and see if the holes remain in the same place. They probably won't initially and you'll have to figure out if you need to increase or decrease the resolution accordingly.

BH Davis

2/21/22       #24: new to me cnc ...
Louie Watkins Member

A bunch of cut files went into making the grid panels and vac motor brackets. Let me know when you are ready and we can get together on the phone to figure out if any of these will be helpful.

 

Buy & Sell Exchanges | Forums | Galleries | Site Map

FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards (return to top)

  • WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
  • Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
  • A valid email return address must be included with each message.
  • Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
  • Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
  • "Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
  • Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
  • Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
  • Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
  • Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
  • Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
  • Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
  • Comments, questions, or criticisms regarding Forum policies should be directed to WOODWEB's Systems Administrator
    (return to top).

    Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.

    You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.

    WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.

    Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).

    Libel:   Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.

    Improper Decorum:   Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).

    Advertising:   The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).

    Repeated Forum Abuse: Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.

    There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).

    The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)


  • Forum Posting Help
    Your Name The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
    Your Website Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    E-Mail Address Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
    Subject Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
    Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Thread Related File Uploads Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .MP4 (Image Upload Tips)   If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Onsrud Cutter Vortex Tool Company T-Tool USA
    Sponsors
    • Industrial CNC
      Affordable, Easy, Industrial Grade CNC Routers for Woodworking and Cabinetmaking - Free Lifetime Support
    • Rangate
      Woodworking Machinery, Supplies and Knowledge
    • Holz-Her US Inc.
      Custom Edgebanders, Vertical Panel Saws, CNC Beam Saws, Wide Belt Sanders, CNC Point to Point Boring Machines, CNC Routers
    • MachineryMax
      New and Used Machinery for the Professional Woodworker
    • Tooling on the Web
      Tooling and Tooling Accessories - Free Re-Sharpening for Qualifying Tools
    • iBiDMachinery
      The Nation's #1 Used Woodworking Marketplace - Buy and Sell Woodworking Equipment with iBiD!
    • MARTIN Woodworking Machines Corp.
      Quality Woodworking Machinery Engineered and Manufactured in Germany
    • Simantech
      New & Used Machinery, Supplies, Tooling, Parts, and Abrasive Products
    • Safety Speed Manufacturing
      Economical Vertical Panel Saws, Panel Routers, Edgebanders and Widebelt Sanders
    • Carter Products
      Band Saw Guides, Blades, Wheels, Tires, Line Lasers and 2D Projectors, Wide Belt Sanding Accessories, Vacuum Holding Systems and More
    • VortexTool Co. Inc.
      Manufacturers of Custom Cutting Tools, and Distributors of Major Cutting Tool Brands
    • Weinig Group-USA
      Wood Moulders and Knife Grinding Equipment
    • Scarlett Machinery Inc.
      New and Used CNC Routers and Used Woodworking Machinery, for Operations Ranging From Small Woodworking Shops to Large Progressive Manufacturing Plants

    Become a Sponsor today!