What you propose is not for the faint of heart. Chipping, blowout, broken bits due the the depth of cut, work holding etc. Very few people know how to do this well.

If it were me I would look for an older pod and rail machine and if you can't get good hold down with the pods design some pneumatic vises for holding the 2X12. Try Exfactory for options. Several there less than $20K that could do this.

Still a lot of work in tooling, speeds, feeds, LH or RH rotation and where to use each one.

Done well it'll change your world. Done poorly your wife will end up dating because of the amount of time you'll be at the shop. The kids need a father after all. :)

Plus 1 on the pod and rail machine. Try the machinery exchange on this site. Your in CA so there should be several nearby. They are cheap used but be careful to get a machine that has a working control and is supported. There are horror stories out there of older machines with an obsolete controller costing thousands to get up and running.

OK, the shop who's been doing this routing for me has a flat table, and they lightly etch the shape onto the spoil board, then position the board.

why do you suggest getting pods? How would you position the piece if you can't see the outline??

Flat table will work best. Make the table out of non porous material like melamine. Cut a Chanel tor 1/8" x 1/4" gasket. Cut a recessed area 3/16" inside the gasket. Now thru holes in the recessed area to access vacuum. You have now made a pressure fixture that is solid for holding solid wood parts. I'll attach a picture of a solid on such a fixture.

View higher quality, full size image (4032 X 3024)

"How do you position?"

Pins. Same way you'd do it in a flat table if not fixturing it somehow.

I'd want to do that in a pod and rail machine as well.

Position? When making the fixture, I use a V-Groove cutter to trace the blank. I can also use pins on the machine. One or the other.

Sorry I've never seen pods in person but aren't they spaced apart, so how do you position blanks like I'd be doing, on pods?

The pods are moveable so you adjust them to where they hold the pieces and not get in the way of the cutter. You get a better hold down as you don't lose suction.

Youtube is your friend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp1vJTRbztY

The advantage of the pod and rail is the vacuum is concentrated on small areas of the part. Slight cup or twist in solid wood will compromise the hold down force on a nested based cnc. What this video doesn't show is hold down clamps that hold the edge of the part. In high end machines the clamps will grab and release during the machining as the cutter goes around.
Talk to the machinery dealers. They will be happy to show off what they think is the right machine for you.

This can be done on either a pod and rail or a flat table machine.
The big one is the length, for flat able you’re probably looking at a 5x10 machine. Your first pic shows it doing 2 at a time with “hobby” routers. A big CNC is going to run a 10-15 jp spindle and runn all day doing this type of part. On a flat table you could screw done or fixture material in place outside of the part area. Depending on speeds and feeds, you would cut in 2-3 passes. To keep part frequency m moving you could onion skin it or leave tabs that hold it in place so it doesn’t move. I’ve never run anything like that but I can see a single part coming off machine I about 3-4 minutes.

What does onion skinning mean Derrek?

A fixture on a flat table will have way more vacuum area under the part than pod and rail. I've had pod and rail in the past. No comparison.

Onion skin is when you do your heavy cutting and leave a very thin layer material in cut about .25mm. You can clean it up on a final pass or pull it off table and break it free then clean up with hand router with a bearing bit on it.