We have had our Conquest 250 for about 25 years I have 2 error messages alternating first one s114 limit axis y not activated and s052 tool magazine movement not ok can't remember how to fix this any help would be appreciated

The S114 Y-axis error is likely just an interlock preventing movement because of the S052 ATC error. The machine is protecting itself because it thinks the tool changer isn't 'Home'.

On a machine that age, check the proximity switches or microswitches on the tool changer carousel/arm. Old coolant tends to turn into glue after 25 years and stick those switches. If the machine doesn't see the 'ATC Home' signal, it won't let you move Y.

Also, double-check your air pressure. Sometimes a slight drop prevents the carousel from snapping fully into position to trigger the sensor.

Alex thanks for responding when I cut the air and line up the ATC pins with the sensors then turn the machine on they both light up after checking our air pressure it also seems fine. The only thing we adjusted was the air sensors above the main arm to fix a different problem this all started because our roof leaked and the controller got wet after 3 days of drying and cleaning we were able to get it running first thing we did was flycut picked up no. 8 with no problem when we went to cut out parts it started this problem. Next morning I come in and did three tool changes and it worked came back later to start and again with the error messages

The wet controller detail changes the picture significantly. That 'works for a bit, then fails' behavior is classic for moisture ingress or a borderline connection.

Since you mentioned you adjusted the sensors above the main arm: I would double-check the gap/distance on those sensors you moved. If they are set right on the 'edge' of their detection range (hysteresis), the vibration from the machine running or even thermal expansion could be causing them to flicker off, triggering the S052/S114 logic again.

Regarding the water: 3 days of drying is good, but moisture loves to wick into the connectors/plugs themselves and stay there long after the board looks dry. If the sensor adjustment doesn't fix it, I’d pull the plugs on that circuit, check for any green corrosion, and hit them with some contact cleaner/air.

Alex I checked my connections and blew them out no difference then I checked my air sensors tried different settings to no avail then I decided to try and drill some holes and when I did the router moved a few inches and I received this s086 head 2 contactor anomaly not sure if this means anything. I attached a photo of the air sensors

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Thanks for the photo. Those pressure switches look a bit weathered with some exposed terminals, but that new S086 error is the 'smoking gun' we’ve been looking for.

S086 (Head 2 Contactor Anomaly) confirms the issue is likely inside the main electrical cabinet where the water damage occurred, rather than out on the machine sensors.

This error means the controller tried to turn on Head 2 (sent the 24V signal), but the feedback signal from the contactor didn't return. Given the water history, here is what likely happened:

Rust/Sticking: Moisture has rusted the internal spring or core of the contactor for Head 2, so it’s physically sticking and not pulling in fast enough.

Corroded Contacts: The 'Auxiliary Contact' (the small feedback block on the side/top of the main contactor) has corroded internals and isn't conducting signal.

Safety First: With power OFF, find the contactor labeled for Head 2. Manually push the plunger in. Does it feel 'crunchy' or sticky? If so, swap that contactor. That should clear your S086 and likely the other phantom errors too.

Alex thanks, the drill bank contactor was the problem I pushed it on and off 4 times and loosen and tighten the terminals and low and behold it started working

Spoke too soon just went out to try again and it won't pocket tool # 1same two error messages as originally posted when i ran the program this morning there was no tool in the head it drilled the holes first then went and picked tool #2 made the dado then went and pocketed #2 and picked tool #1 cut the perimeter and went to home now it won't pocket tool #1 and the ATC not lining up

Glad to hear we found the culprit, Christopher! But that 'spoke too soon' moment is exactly why water-damaged electrical components are so tricky.

The fact that working the contactor manually made it run for a cycle proves that the contactor is indeed the failure point.

Here is what is happening: Even though you freed it up momentarily, the internal contacts (or the coil mechanism) are likely pitted or still sticky from the corrosion. When it fails to engage fully or releases too slowly during the tool change sequence, the PLC misses the timing window, the carousel drifts out of position, and you get that S114/S052 error combo again because the sequence got interrupted mid-air.

My strong recommendation: Stop fighting it and replace that contactor immediately. Cleaning it is only a temporary band-aid. Once you swap in a fresh contactor (and check the auxiliary block on top of it), I am 99% sure your ATC alignment and pocketing issues will vanish for good.

It’s a cheap part compared to the downtime it's causing you!

Alex finally received the contactor and auxiliary contact replaced both of them didn't work I'm at a loss heading back to the air when I close the left air sensor in the picture it kills the machine when I close the right one nothing happens I also sent a picture of the block the air lines go into only one green light comes on we have had problems with that before

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Sorry to hear the contactor didn't be the magic bullet for the whole system, Christopher. However, replacing it was necessary to clear that S086 hard fault, so it wasn't a waste—we are just peeling back the layers of this "water damage onion."

The new info about the Right Air Sensor doing "nothing" and the Solenoid Block is actually very helpful. Here is the logic:

1. The "Right" Sensor (The Silent One): If triggering the Left sensor kills the machine (E-Stop loop), that represents a "Safe/Home" state. The Right sensor usually confirms the opposite state (e.g., Drawbar Open, or ATC Arm Extended). If you trigger that Right sensor manually and nothing happens (no change on the diagnostic screen, no relay click), the controller doesn't know the tool release cylinder has done its job. It waits for that signal, times out, and throws S052.

Test: Can you put a multimeter on the terminals of that Right sensor? See if it's actually switching 24V (or 110V) when you actuate it. The sensor itself might have died from the moisture.

2. The Solenoid Valve Block: You mentioned only one green light is on. When the machine attempts to pocket the tool, do you see a second light flicker on that block?

If NO light appears: The signal isn't leaving the controller (or is lost in a corroded wire/relay on the way there).

If a light DOES appear but nothing moves: The solenoid valve spool is stuck (common with old sticky air/water).

3. The Manual Override Trick: Most of those older solenoid blocks (like the one in your photo) have small manual override buttons or pin-holes on the valve body itself (usually near the coil).

CAUTION: With air on but spindle STOPPED, try carefully pushing the manual button on the valve that corresponds to the ATC arm/drawbar.

If the mechanism moves smoothly when you push the button manually, your pneumatics and mechanics are fine. The issue is strictly electrical (the "Right" sensor not reporting, or the solenoid not receiving the command).

Focus on that Right sensor first—if the brain doesn't know the arm is ready, it won't let the hand move!

Alex when I screw the right sensor all the way in it does kill the machine when I check voltage on the air pressure sensors I get o volts when the set screws are turn out when I screw them all the way in it kills the machine and I get 24V
I would buy new ones but don't know where to get the exact same thing from both of them have different size threads on them. When I checked the solenoid valves I start a tool change and the far right lights up but the machine still stops. The light stays lit until you clear the error messages. I couldn't find the bypass on the outside one so that's all I have for now

This is actually great progress, Christopher.

Sensors are cleared: The fact that you get 24V and kill the machine when adjusting them confirms the wiring and the sensors themselves are functional. You don't need to buy new ones; they just need to be dialed back to the correct pressure threshold later.

The "Light On" is the key: You said the far-right light on the solenoid block lights up when you command a tool change.

This confirms the controller is sending the signal. The "brain" is working!

But the machine still stops.

Diagnosis: The electrical signal is getting to the coil, but the valve spool is physically stuck.

Given the age of the machine (25 years) plus the recent moisture, the lubricant inside that valve body has likely turned into a sticky paste. The magnetic coil isn't strong enough to overcome that friction.

Action Plan: Focus entirely on that specific valve with the light.

Tap Test: While the light is ON (during the error state), try giving the side of that valve body a firm tap with the handle of a screwdriver. Sometimes the vibration is enough to unstick the spool.

Manual Actuation: I know you couldn't find the button, but look closely at the center of the coil nut or the end of the valve. There is almost always a tiny pinhole. You can push it with a small Allen key.

The Fix: You likely need to take that specific valve apart and clean the spool with WD-40 or replace it. It’s a mechanical jam, not an electrical ghost anymore.

Alex that valve was sticking took it out and clean it and sprayed it with WD40 seems like it had burs on it so I ordered a new one from Radcliffe says it won't be here till next Monday hoping it fixes it. Not sure if taking it apart would help any. After I cleaned and lubricated it. It came within a couple of inches of doing a tool change before it stopped

That makes perfect sense, Christopher.

Once a valve spool has physical burrs or scoring, no amount of WD-40 will bring it back to 100% reliability. It creates friction that you might not feel by hand, but under air pressure, it binds up just enough to slow down the movement and trigger the timeout error.

Since the new part is already on its way, I wouldn't waste another minute fighting with the old one. You have successfully identified the root cause, which is the hardest part of the battle.

Take a breath, enjoy the weekend, and swapping that valve on Monday should be the final fix!

Alex the valve we are replacing controls the head when I put the new one in there the head would not move using M11 and M12 so I told mark to put in the command and I was going to move the wires a little bit Alex I just barely touched it and it came on. The head goes up and down with the proper command so it does the tool changes with no problem I can't thank you enough the machine is running only problem now is I must have a short somewhere right now i'm running and cutting once I get caught up I'll chase it down thank you again

That is fantastic news, Christopher! I am glad to hear the machine is finally making chips again.

The fact that it worked when you moved the wires confirms the new valve is good. That sensitivity suggests the "short" is likely a physical connection issue. Given the history of water damage, the moisture probably caused some oxidation on the connector pins or loosened a crimp.

When you have time to chase it down later, check the pins inside that connector plug. Sometimes they back out of the plastic housing just slightly and cause intermittent contact.

For now, catching up on production is the priority. I am happy I could help you navigate through those S114 and S052 errors. Good luck with the work!