Message Thread:
using pre-finished plywood vs raw/unfinished
1/21/22
As with most cabinet shops today many of the jobs that I undertake are solid color finishes. Given the state of the quality of plywood as the preferred substrate with voids below the top sheet of veneer, separation of the veneer at the seams, many variations in grain, extremely thin veneers themselves...etc , I have been using pre-finished clear maple ply as the substrate to spray all of my color jobs. This gives me a super smooth substrate with none of the problems that I have mentioned above.
My schedule is I sand the pe-finished plywood with 220 grit to help with the mechanical bond of the primer ....1 coat primer.....2 coats of the pigmented topcoat with 320 sanding in-between. I use Kem Aqua "Surfacer "Primer with 2 coats of Sivam waterbase color.
I do worry somewhat with the adhesion of the Primer to pre-finished maple ply. So far so good.........................anyone else using this method?.........and with what results. thanks for any response on this
1/21/22 #3: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Ive done the same thing numerous times with no issue mainly because we bring in UV clear prefinished one side domestic ply for cabs cheaper than we can buy raw and far cheaper than veneer core melamine. The pre-finished is about the best veneer substrate Ive found for pigmented work and the domestic stuff is flat so your 90% of the way there over any raw material (grain raise, warpage, etc).
We cut for another shop who insists on raw ply for carcass material that they spray in house and it drives them nuts that the pre-finished ply we run is most always a few bucks cheaper than their raw material but they continue to run it.
1/22/22 #4: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
I guess I don't understand.?? In Fl. back in the early 2000's, We were using the pre finished maple ply as a selling point, it was always used for the interiors of all cabinets, and being a UV cured urethane, we guaranteed it's performance as to chemicals etc. It was a great interior finish and cut down on the over all finishing cost drastically. Our kitchen jobs usually ran in the 50- 85, thousand range, for the finest homes in south Florida, how could a water base finish out perform a UV Urethane.??
For our exterior finishes, yes we did both painted and natural wood finishes, multi step glazes etc.
With only the face edges of the boxes being painted, never the already finished interiors.
Is it now the case that your customers are demanding color matched painted interiors or what.?? Help me understand what's going on please.??
1/22/22 #5: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
The point is regardless of your 50-80k FLA mc mansions (florida is the dog sh$t of construction standards... an utter hell hole) uv cured prefinished ply is sold in such quantities that it is in fact one of the best substrates for any subsequent pigmented finish regardless of solvent or water. You have a pretty much dead flat, smooth, starting point thats cheaper than even veneer core melamine.
I would not be steering my offering based on anything produced in the FLA market. That can be some of the worse of the worse. I know theres quality there (forgive me harold et al) but FLA is not known for anything quality on mass
1/22/22 #6: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
I do the same thing except I'm using a solvent based finish on top of the UV.
Sand 150, prime, 320, pigmented coat, 320, top coat.
1/22/22 #7: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Mark B, What brand of one sided UV are you using that stays dead flat? The Roseburg and Columbia I get from my supplier never seems to be, or stay flat. I assumed it was because it was only finished on one side, so it had unbalanced moisture in it. Is the stuff your using the what the call combi core? It has mdf as the ply directly under the face veneer.
Also, I sure would not lump all of Florida’s quality of work into one basket. I live in northern Michigan, and I have several customers that have their main homes in Naples. The level of work in a lot of those homes is superb. A lot of them have much more expensive kitchens than $85,000.
1/23/22 #8: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Chemmy started his post writing that in the " early 2000's " his kitchens were 50-85 k. That would be today 85 - 100 k +.
And I share his confusion re is this a trend? We don't see it and our designers/decorators have an awareness of what's going on in 2 of our country's very higher end and trend setting markets.
So, along with Chemmy I ask: What's going on guys?
1/23/22 #9: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Have you tried something like this?
HDF ply
1/24/22 #10: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Website: canadianacabinets.com
Guys it has been our experience that pigmented solvent base lacquer will not adhere to the us coated plywood. Thoughts?
1/24/22 #11: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Matt,
First, I will agree that my broad brush of the FLA market is a stereotype. That said, I have known personally many who have operated in that market as well as people who have owned in that market and I think anyone whether its maker or owner who is speaking honestly would say its a "peculiar" market to say the least. Spin peculiar any way you want but transient, quick, in-and-out, partial use so good enough is good enough, whatever. Its not a viewpoint of FLA that is unique to me. But yes, broad brush stereotype not good on my part.
The Columbia, RockShield, even a States to an extent, for me at a least, has been exceptionally flat. I have never had a single complaint about Columbia other than at the moment the cost, and most generally in my area the availability. I havent had much bad experience at all with 1/2" and 3/4" prefin 1 side North American core period. But what you consider flat and what I consider flat may be completely different animals. Flat to me is something that lays down on the CNC without opposing corners up in the air that require being held down for the vac to pickup and your hoping once you start cutting the tension out it stays put. That scenario is junk in my world. Ive never had a sheet of Columbia behave like that. Now if we are in some sort of "fine furniture" flat I would have no idea how to qualify that.
All the pf1 and pf2 domestic Ive had in the shop is more than acceptable for anything we've run and when top coating it with pigmented, as I mentioned, youve got a pretty much dead smooth starting point.
The times when I miss it is when the customer wants some grain showing through the finish and you have to start from raw. More work.
1/25/22 #12: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Bill,
20 + years ago approached painting prefinished ply having not done so before. We sanded with 120 grit thoroughly( never would I use 220 - gets burnished in a heartbeat as the uv is too hard, so the scratch pattern is iffy and not deep enough!) and cv primed until fully white. Waited a week and did cross hatch and abrasion tests. No issues, none. Other than had to sand to level, etc. Waste of time. Easier to skin mdf/hdf to 1 sided prefinish ply - prefinish interior side, mdf/hdf flat panel exterior for painting. Edge band. Done.
Now your suggestion re hdf is good re assembly screws/ splitting etc., yet doesn't solve the prefin for the interior on a 3/4" frameless job which I think is where the whole conversation started. I am honestly not sure as the questioner didn't specify whether this was all about finished flat fronts, end panels, interiors or both. Nor did the "first responders." I assume they are referencing painting flat finished end panels and fronts and were on the same page. Not so Chemmy nor I were on that page.
If that is the case, I have spent hours dumping on primer and then leveling plywood prefinished or not. Plywood is not flat. Prefinished plywood is not flat- much better yet not flat. Typically, grain and manufacturing waves that need to be leveled. Too much paint and too much labor. Of course, it depends what your gloss is - dead flat, 10, maybe 20, certainly not 35+ - and what your expectations are.
And Bill, I haven't used poplar core in ages - 15 years? - back then lots of voids and other issues. I assume it has improved? Post please.
2/2/22 #13: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
In my experience, l've found that better adhesion to uv cured prefinished plywood is achieved by a finer scratch, 320 grit is my grit of choice before priming.
4/6/22 #14: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
I have a job coming up that I will be building and finishing with a solid color
I've been thinking of trying out this idea of using UV finished plywood instead of MDF
I primarily use MLC product
My go to primer is white vinyl primer and then Turino as my finish coat
Should I look at a different primer?
Or is the WVP good enough?
4/6/22 #15: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Never used it before on the UV coated. But that stuff sticks to everything. Still scuff the UV coating before priming.
4/6/22 #16: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
Leo
Thanks
Yes you're right about that WVP
And yes I am planning on scuffing the UV surface
8/3/24 #17: using pre-finished plywood vs raw/u ...
I have also worked with pre-finished maple ply for my cabinet projects and found it to be a game changer. Like many of you, I sand with 220 grit to ensure a good bond before applying primer. The smoothness and consistency of pre-finished ply significantly reduce prep time and eliminate issues like grain raise and veneer separation. I have used both water-based and solvent-based finishes with excellent results, but I make sure to use high-quality primers to ensure proper adhesion. Overall, the benefits of using pre-finished ply far outweigh the drawbacks, especially for achieving high-quality, solid color finishes. You can check here https://mjklosscarpentry.co.uk/ for more ideas.
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