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Quick question folks.
Better yet, don't stain maple. Switch to dyes. Far more consistent results and far less blotching.
i wouldnt try to fix a poor looking stain that way . my solution would be to sand and re-stain . fix it right......fix it once .
last thing I need is to attempt one remedy after another.....just to end up sanding it all back off anyway .
and why a second coat of stain ?
the product is a ronseal diamond coat. It's a 2in1 stain and varnish. The manufacturer recommends 2coats but the brush stroke overlaps are horrendous looking.
the answer would be no.....theres no way to fix that . your glue size idea would be adding to the problem.....just more to sand off later .2 in 1 stain/varnish are crap product in my book .
on the bright side.......because the color was contained in the finish coat , it didnt absorb into the wood much at all......this means that all that streaking will sand out quite easily . 120 grit on a machine sander , or 100 if it has to be sanded by hand.........then follow your sanding schedule back up to where you want it .
Great stuff. Thanks a mill jimmy. Ya i have come to realise those products are shocking bad.
What do you think?
if I were limited to hand application methods , which I assume you are , I would play with .......water-dyes and/or gel stains on maple . water dyes are pretty easy to control , but still may be beyond the scope.........gel stains hardly penetrate at all , and could be applied to raw wood or between coats of varnish ( as a toner ) ......looks pretty sweet actually .
this project being a floor , I would stick to standard practices as closely as possible . re-doing a floor aint no picnic ......meaning I personally wouldnt apply glue size to a floor......not saying its a bad idea ; just that I would explore other options first .
you could also apply a " clear " stain base prior to staining with a pigment stain . clear base is just as the name implies....un-pigmented stain.....it contains only solvents and binder.....no color . this method partially seals the raw wood , usually allowing your regular stain to penetrate evenly . you may need to choose a stain a few clicks darker than what you thought you would need though .
if you're trying to go dark on maple , your best bet is to experiment with dye stains . .
Sand back to wood. Sand to 220...I know further than many would recommend but with maple it's a must. **Pick up Daly's Benite** and apply a liberal coat and DO NOT WIPE off as they recommend. Just brush it on in an even coat and let it dry. Then use a gel stain. General Finishes makes a great one and believe it or not Minwax's gels are good also. Good luck and don't forget the benite. It's a must on maple.
Sherwin Williams wiping stain is one of the very few stains that I have found works well on maple. You don't need to glue size or conditioner.
I realize that you have likely already solved this issue but thought I'd give you a couple tips for future reference. I've stained hundreds of maple floors and have perfected the methods for doing it flawlessly.. In the event that you ever have a floor like this that isn't flawless mix some mixol or transtint dye to match the color of the stain, then tint some dewaxed shellac for the first coat after the stain. This will even it out..
Now back to staining maple floors. As I'm sure you know a maple floor must be sanded flawlessly to stain.. We have found that ending our process with the lager trio will produce these perfect results. We also palm sand the edges using festool palm sanders. We also don't skip any grits in our sanding progression.. On a typical maple floor we would; drum sand with 60 grit, edge with 60, drum with 80, edge with 80, drum with 100, palm sand with 100 (festool paper- granat works best), then we would trio with 100 grit, trio again with 120 grit.
After a flawless sand job, we water pop using a mix of water and denatured alcohol. We use about 4 parts water to 1 part alcohol. Then we have found that certain stains work very well of maple and that most others don't work well.. The key to a good stain for maple is a thick product; I like Sherwin Williams, General Finishes, or Varthane.. Stay away from Minwax, Duraseal, Bona etc.. None work that great on maple..
We then apply the stain with a buffer. It gets it more even than you could get it any other way.. We apply with a thick white pad, and wipe with a thin pad.. If using the general finishes apply in small sections because it sets up quick..
Hope this can help.