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Polishing CV finish

scott Member

Can anyone give me a schedule for polishing out High gloss CV by ML Campbell. This will be a Pigmented rust color. I tried to presuade the owner to use satin, but they prefer the high gloss. Any problems to watch for. The doors will be flat MDF with 1/16 radius edge. I looked at past articles but didn't find any up to date info. thanks for help.

10/21/15       #2: Polishing CV finish ...
Leo G

I just did a maple tabletop in a deep blue high gloss. If you want to do it right it will take some time. You need the finish to cure a good amount for it to take a good polish.

I probably went overboard but the results were great.

You probably don't need to go as far as I did with the multiple coats because you are using MDF as a substrate which is grainless. With the Maple I needed to make sure it didn't telegraph through.

I used Krystal sealer, tinted, for the base coat. Two coats, first one sanded back hard, 2nd coat sanded back medium.

Then I put 1 coat of Krystal tinted to the color and scuffed lightly.

Then I put 3 successive coats of Level Sealer on and let that cure for 3 days.

I sanded that back hard with 320. This is the coat that you use to get things flat and mirror like. Using MDF would be very good because it's already flat.

Lastly I put 2 coats of Krystal on it. Again I let that cure for 3 days in a 75F or warmer room.

After that comes the buffing/polishing.

Started with 800 grit Mirka Abranet and flattened the tabletop, paying special attention to the edges to get rid of the little bump buildup that happens when you spray.

After that I wet sanded with Abralon. Started with 1000 grit and did 2000, 3000 and then 4000. Making sure to wipe down the project with water to clean all grain particles from the sanding.

After that I buffed it with a sponge pad using a 3M finishing polish.

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10/23/15       #3: Polishing CV finish ...
jimmy cream

wow Leo........thats extremely cool ....... nicely done .

do you know the final/ total millage ?

did you buff the pedestal also ?

10/23/15       #4: Polishing CV finish ...
Leo G

I wasn't suppose to build any of it. The client rejected my price to build the table and got it off of Etsy. When it came in it was knotty pine, and badly done.

I remade the top out of maple and used epoxy to eliminate the possibility of glue creep lines. The base was pretty bad but since the showcase was the mirror top I puttied and bondoed it til it was good enough.

I don't have a lathe in the shop.

10/31/15       #5: Polishing CV finish ...
Rick Mosher  Member


I posted a 3 part series of the step by step process on a high gloss conference table I did a while back. I would recommend polyester for the build coats and 2K urethane for the top coat.

Just follow the link at the end of each part to continue to the end.

Part 1

10/31/15       #6: Polishing CV finish ...
Rick Mosher  Member


To answer your original question, you have to be VERY careful buffing CV or you will wet sand or buff through a layer of finish and leave the dreaded halos. Then you have to re-coat and risk exceeding the max mil thickness.

11/1/15       #7: Polishing CV finish ...

This may be a stupid question, but why would using epoxy instead of glue help stop the glue joint creep lines ? Not that this would work on the project, but we use the lock miter as much as we can to avoid the creep .

11/1/15       #8: Polishing CV finish ...
Leo G

Epoxy dries hard and has zero creep. Whereas TiteBond II has a good deal of creep. You can see it in the finish after it cures for a while. With the epoxy you don't have that problem in my experience.

11/2/15       #9: Polishing CV finish ...

Are you using epoxy for all areas prone to creep or only on speciality projects ?

11/2/15       #10: Polishing CV finish ...
Leo G

Specialty projects.

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