Total Finishing Supplies

Professional Finishing

You are not logged in. [ Login ] Why log in
(NOTE: Login is not required to post)

Lacquer Won't Dry

3/1/16       
Willie

The original finish on this cypress table was just some Johnson's paste wax hand-rubbed to help repel spills, stains, etc. Disappointed in the look and effectiveness of this finish, I brought it back to the shop several months later, sanded it (although the paper kept clogging with wax, so I know there was some wax left on the surfaces), sprayed a couple of coats of SW vinyl sealer which took a couple of days to dry (that's when I knew I had trouble on my hands), and then I sprayed two coats of SW Cab Acrylic Lacquer. It's been sitting in my spray room for about two days and still is tacky in some spots. Is there any fix for this, short of stripping it back down to bare wood and refinishing it? I've got some time on this, so if I just need to wait it out a few more days, that's ok, too.


View higher quality, full size image (918 X 1632)


View higher quality, full size image (918 X 1632)


View higher quality, full size image (918 X 1632)

3/2/16       #3: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
kevin

dont be lazy. If its worth doing, do it right. If you choose to continue with this incorrectly attempted refinish, you will no doubt have failures. You should have stopped at the first sign of issues. However, being that its just a clear finish and sprayed with lacquer, the stripping should be simple (but necessary).

Strip it!
wash it thoroughly with wax and grease remover. Then wash it again.

Then you may sleep well knowing that your not passing your bad work onto unsuspecting customers.

3/2/16       #4: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Paul Snyder  Member

Website: finishing.tips

Here's an alternative that works well....

Gently wipe the surface with a cotton cloth folded flat and wetted (not dripping) with zylene (or wax and grease remover). Rotate the face of the cloth as needed to keep it clean. This will remove the wax that migrated to the surface of the finish. Be careful where the finish is sticky - it's soft and easily damaged.

Let it dry for a day, scuff sand and apply the final coat.

3/2/16       #5: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Robert Member

Probably best to strip it down to raw wood and start over with a clean wax free canvas.
Sanding off a finish is not always the best approach to stripping.

Chances are that the wax just got moved around with the back and forth movement of the sander.
The heat generated from the sand paper being agitated against the wood, forced the wax into the wood.

Don't waste your time kicking a dead horse.
Chemically strip the finish off. Once its stripped, wash/rinse it off real real good with Lacquer Thinner. A Maroon colored Scotch-Brite pad along with the L/T will give you a nice clean surface to apply your finish to.

3/2/16       #6: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Paul Snyder  Member

Website: finishing.tips

When I was refinishing furniture I ran into this problem a once in a while and fixed it by carefully using zylene to remove the wax (a trick I learned on this forum years ago). It's a LOT less work than stripping the finish and starting over. It only takes a couple minutes...

If it doesn't work in this case, starting over is always an option.

It also looks like you may have some resin bleed at the knots. If so, shellac works well to seal them.

3/2/16       #7: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Willie

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try applying the xylene with a cloth.
Kevin, I failed to mention that this table is for my wife's office. She doesn't care that the finish is applied incorrectly, she just wants a clear finish that is more durable and stain resistant than the wax. There is no unsuspecting customer involved. If the finish fails now or later on, I will fix it. I suppose I took the lazy route by not researching how the wax would affect the finish and now I have to deal with the consequences, but there was no attempt to deceive a customer.

3/2/16       #8: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
kevin

Gotcha! =)

In my experience, the wife is always the hardest customer to please!! You might want to consider iron cladding that table!

3/2/16       #9: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
rich c.

If the finish fails? You have lacquer sitting on top of wax, it's going to fail. If it would dry, you'll be able to get a finger nail under the finish and peel it off. Strip it off.

3/2/16       #10: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Paul Snyder  Member

Website: finishing.tips

rich - the wax rises to the surface when you spray the finish. The solvents in the finish dissolve it and it floats to the top. The wax sitting on the surface is why the finish is sticky in patches - the wax prevents air from drying the finish. The finish is not sitting on top of the wax.

Most people don't realize, but waxes are used as an additive in finishes to improve scratch, abrasion and mar resistance, lower sheen, act as a defoaming agent, modify the flow of the finish, and improve it's chemical resistance. Of course that doesn't mean anyone should add wax to their finish - it's an exacting science.

Using a solvent like zylene (or naptha or toulene) that dissolves the wax without damaging the finish is a simple solution. You just have to be careful to go very lightly over the tacky areas.

3/3/16       #11: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
rich c.

Gosh, so a guy can really save some time by waxing and spraying at the same time. Learn something new every day. Thanks Paul.

3/3/16       #12: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Paul Snyder  Member

Website: finishing.tips

I wouldn't recommend it...

3/4/16       #13: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Willie

I'll give it a shot with the xylene this evening. I'll post the results soon.

3/5/16       #14: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Harry DeVrieze Member

Paul Snyders tip is 100% right. It work's I have used the same technique when I have had issues.

3/8/16       #15: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Willie

Rubbing with the xylene worked, but it is a delicate process. In a couple of spots, I rubbed a little too hard and displaced some of the lacquer with the rag, creating some small ridges in the surface. After the xylene evaporated and the lacquer dried off, I sanded the entire top surface with 220 and then 320 sandpaper to smooth the ridges and scratch the surface, then applied another coat of lacquer. A couple of small tacky spots reappeared, so I tried rubbing this time with mineral spirits, hoping to clean off the wax that had re-risen to the surface without breaking into the lacquer. It took a couple of applications, but it did the trick. Those spots where I rubbed the mineral spirits did stay a little shinier than the rest of the surface, although I suspect it was caused by the rubbing and not the mineral spirits itself. The final product is very acceptable for its application, a work table at a marketing and design agency. Had it been a brand new dining table, coffee table, etc., I would have needed to continue with the rubbing and recoating process to achieve a more perfect finish, but such was not the case.

Thanks, Paul, for the tip. You saved me a lot of time and trouble.

Could there possibly be a more appropriate solvent than xylene or mineral spirits for this process? A solvent that could break down the wax better than mineral spirits without breaking down the lacquer like the xylene does?


View higher quality, full size image (918 X 1632)


View higher quality, full size image (918 X 1632)


View higher quality, full size image (918 X 1632)

3/8/16       #16: Lacquer Won't Dry ...
Paul Snyder  Member

Website: finishing.tips

Nicely done Willie - looks much better.

The family of solvents that come from distilling crude oil are a good choice for dissolving wax without damaging dried lacquer and other finishes, but you should do your best to avoid "rubbing." A light wipe/swipe with a cotton cloth folded to keep the contact face flat and smooth is the best approach. I like to use the heavy duty paper towels sold as “Box of Rags” in the paint aisle for this purpose (2-3 folded into quarters - rotate face frequently). For those that do refinishing work, this problem is not unusual and you get pretty good at removing the wax without damaging the finish - it takes some practice. Note that there is usually a LOT less wax after the refinisher cleans the stripping residue before applying a new finish. Your case was unusual in that regard.

Common petroleum distillate solvents include toluene, xylene, naphtha, and mineral spirits – listed in order of speed of evaporation. The first two, toluene and xylene, are strong enough to soften many cured polymers (e.g., dried oil-base paint or varnish), but not strong enough to dissolve them (solvent strength of 105 and 98). They are a good choice to use as a co-solvent to promote adhesion without wrinkling the previous coat(s) of paint/finish. Toluene evaporates fast and xylene evaporates medium-fast.

Naphtha and mineral spirits have lower solvent strength (34 and 37 respectively) and are used as thinners for oil-base paints/finishes. They don’t soften or dissolve cured oil-base polymers. Naphtha evaporate faster than mineral spirits and is less oily.

I like xylene because it has other uses – it can remove dried latex paint; white or yellow glue; and some tape residues without damaging an existing lacquer finish (again, avoid rubbing – use as a wet compress and gently wipe once softened). It’s also good for cleaning a silk-screen or printing rollers between colors.

To remove wax and reduce the possibility of damaging the existing finish, naphtha would be the all-around best choice. It has low solvent strength, is less oily than mineral spirits, and evaporates fast.


Post a Response
  • Notify me of responses to this thread
  • Subscribe to email updates on this Forum
  • To receive email notification of additions to this forum thread,
    enter your name and email address, and then click the
    "Keep Me Posted" button below.

    Please Note: If you have posted a message or response,
    do not submit this request ... you are already signed up
    to receive notification!

    Your Name:
    E-Mail Address:
    Enter the correct numbers into the field below:
     

    Date of your Birth:



    Return to top of page

    Buy & Sell Exchanges | Forums | Galleries | Site Map

    FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards (return to top)

  • WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
  • Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
  • A valid email return address must be included with each message.
  • Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
  • Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
  • "Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
  • Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
  • Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
  • Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
  • Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
  • Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
  • Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
  • Comments, questions, or criticisms regarding Forum policies should be directed to WOODWEB's Systems Administrator
    (return to top).

    Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.

    You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.

    WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.

    Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).

    Libel:   Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.

    Improper Decorum:   Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).

    Advertising:   The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).

    Repeated Forum Abuse: Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.

    There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).

    The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)


  • Forum Posting Help
    Your Name The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
    Your Website Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    E-Mail Address Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
    Subject Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
    Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Thread Related File Uploads Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .MP4 (Image Upload Tips)   If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)