|Home » Forums » Professional Finishing » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
Making Lacquer Look Like Polyurethane10/1/16
I'm spraying some knotty cypress tables that won't be exposed regularly to food or water. They are not dining tables; they'll be used in an office as desks.
Try Zinsser Dewaxed 'Sealcoat' shellac as an 'amber' toner. Sand prior to finishing with your lacquer topcoat.
Make sample board to confirm color.
Cypress for a desk? The stuff I've used is soft as pine. Sure that is going to work out? Why not use a thin dye for the color?
Rich c, yes, cypress is soft but will work fine. This is about the twelfth one I've built for my client's office. They get dinged up a little but not too bad.
Instead of trying to make something look like poly, why not just try poly, recognizing what you have mentioned. S-W poly dries quite rapidly and has the amber tone you seek and of course the depth. While SW does own the Miniwax Co., I recommend the SW poly instead but one word of caution (DAMHIK), they offer a Fast Dry Sanding sealer & Fast Dry Poly to use together, distinguished from their Poly line.
Applying the Poly over the Fast Dry sanding sealer will lift the sealer as cautioned in the Product Data Sheets.
I can point out catalog numbers if it would be helpful.
Try M.L.campbell Duravar conversion varnish. It amber out nicely giving you the richer tone you are looking for. We use it extensively on our natural cherry and walnut work.
Spray light coats of Bullseye amber shellac washcoats (reduce it 2 parts denatured alcohol with 1 part Bullseye) till you get the rich tones that you want. Scuff and topcoat.
If you're antsy because this shellac does have a wax content to it that you don't want to decant, scuff and lay down a thin coating of Zinsser Sealcoat. Sealcoat is a 2-lb cut of pale dewaxed shellac. Also reduce this as described above.
The Sealcoat will act as a barrier coat for the Bullseye undercoat and it will be a tie coat that your topcoat will adhere to, especially if you scuff it (only enough to create a light scratch pattern, 320 grit is suitable or even just a gray or red scotchbrite).
Most precat lacquers amber out over a month or two anyway.
i like sherwins hi build precat..has a resistance to yellowing and using a vinyl sealer...you can add universal dyes..ngrs to achieve a tone u like..
I use colors in both sealers and lacquers depending on my needs never an issue..
Sherwin-Williams "Fast Dry Oil Varnish" will give you the look you want, and is more durable than lacquer. It's not as durable as polyurethane, but it is a pretty good product.
It cures a bit slower than lacquer, but definitley quicker than polyurethane.
They have a sanding sealer available for it if you so desire, but my preference was always just to use two or three coats of the fast-dry oil varnish. Sanding sealer cures quicker but the sacrifice in final durability was something I wanted to avoid.