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Barrier coat question

KDBuilds Member

So, I have these Hickory tables I'm producing for a local restaurant/bar and after getting great feedback on this forum, I chose to use a 2K poly topcoat. I made a boneheaded mistake in applying a Watco walnut finish to the raw wood because my client loved the color. Problem: 2K poly is not really compatible with the Watco and I'm wondering if I can salvage this with a shellac barrier coat or am I up a creek? Any suggestions would be appreciated!!

12/21/16       #2: Barrier coat question ...

Once the watco is thoroughly dried you can apply a 2 part urethane designed specifically for situations such as this. Your 2 PK supplier should have some. It can be applied as a washcoat, if desired, reducing with quality acetone.

12/21/16       #3: Barrier coat question ...
KDBuilds Member

What's interesting is that I was on the phone posing this question with Vogel industrial coatings (corporate) before posting it here and the person I spoke with wished me his condolences and said that Danish oil would likely be mobile for months and there was little I could either they don't make the 2part urethane or he was not current with his own product line! Unfortunately, I have already began the sand/restain process with the upside being that it's only 5 small tables. Thank you for your response Shenandoah!

12/21/16       #4: Barrier coat question ...
Leo G

Use a oily wood sealer after the Watco has dried for a good while.

12/22/16       #5: Barrier coat question ...
Rick Mosher

Just use a quality isolante. It is a 2k barrier coat used with polyester coatings. It should solve your problem but I would do a test panel first and then do an adhesion test.

12/22/16       #6: Barrier coat question ...

Rick, barrier coats, of the type to which we are referring, are 2 part urethanes - as opposed to other barrier coats like shellac or vinyl. Ilva, ICA, Chemcraft, etc. all have 2 part urethanes/barrier coatings that they market for use under polyester and also for use under their 2PK coatings as a barrier when pigment based or even alcohol based stains have been applied.
Your mention of a test sample was spot on - I did not go that far.
Allow watco sample to dry as long as possible - maintain proper temperature and air movement recommended.
follow manuf. recommendations for reduction, mil thickness etc for barrier coating.

12/22/16       #7: Barrier coat question ...
Pete D

This is interesting because I use tung oil to bring out the color in walnut, specifically one coat of waterlox, under waterborne poly clear coat. I usually wait a couple days, but have top coated the next day without any adhesion issues. Wouldn't have thought watco would be much different.

I've never sprayed 2k poly, is it less forgiving than a standard poly (enduro) like the one I use from General Finishes or is this more about the nuances/variations between different manufacturers formulas?

12/26/16       #8: Barrier coat question ...
DanShaf Member

Pete D, you're writing about waterborne systems but this discussion is about solvent plural component solvent systems, complete apples and oranges.

In answer to the problem, place the coated items in a room with lots of warm moving air for at least a day if you feel that some curing is still needed. Then lay down some light coats of Zinsser Sealcoat. This is 2-lb cut pale shellac. Allow to dry. Scuff with 320 or red Scotch-Brite, get rid of all your scuffing dust and topcoat with your 2-pk poly.

1/1/17       #9: Barrier coat question ...
Michael Foscone

It just amazes me the things woodworkers do. Do like Rick says, you should be fine, that is for a woodworker.

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