is a maroon pad coarse enough for sanding between coats of CV? I am always struggling with sand thru so i was just wondering if any of the scotch brite pads are good enough for scuffing between coats of CV.

thanks Nicko

also i have a few hundred seven foot pieces of oak colonial casing to spray and thought it would be easier to use a pad instead of paper to sand it

thanks Nicko

If maroon is too aggressive, you can go to the next level of grey scotchbrite.

Also, it is my experience, not all Maroon pads are created equal. Some are less coarse than others. Experiment.

l use and have had good results with the Mirka maroon mirlon pads when sanding profiles on stain jobs to avoid burn-throughs. I say good because l rarely get a stain sand through but (this is nitpicking) the finish does not come not quite as smooth as a 320 grit sanding. of course the compromise is worth it.

I use the maroon pad for the profiles and
320 to 400 grit for flat surfaces.
I only use paper because it levels the
finish where as a scuff pad really doesn't.
But, like said above, there are different
grades of maroon pads.
I use the Mirka ones.

thanks for the responses.
I have maroon scotch brite pads that i use when doing solid surface work so that is what i will try. I think they leave a pretty good scratch pattern. I have always used sandpaper between coats of CV so i didn't know if it was acceptable to use a pad for adhesion between coats.

thanks..............nicko

Abrasive is abrasive. There is no real difference between 320 grit paper and maroon(3m or Mirka) abrasive pads. They are both 320 grit aluminum oxide. Many people prefer the pads because they don't clog, don't need a block, are bigger than folded paper. Often there is no need to flatten the finish like on cabinet doors. Quickly scuff the surface with the pad and start spraying.

On most surfaces you are trying to remove dust, overspray, and increase adhesion. Paper is often not the best choice in order to achieve this.

I disagree. With sandpaper you will flatten the nibs easily. With a scotchbrite or Mirlon pad you will smooth them, but not take them off.

What you really need is to get some repair products for your spray room. I have a bunch of different Mohawk repair products that have changed the problem of a burn through into something easily fixed.

Blendal sticks and Pro Mark II magic markers will help out a lot. I use the Fil-Stiks for small holes and defects in painted and stained woods.

Of course it's best not to burn through in the first place LOL.

For years I used the Webb abrasive sanding sponges and still do but we added the surfprep surge sander along with the 1/2" foam pads and those cut back on burn through substantially. Also, while it adds time and cost, one more coat prior to sanding gives a better product and makes it harder to get through to the stain.

This is more than i am used to spraying. I usually can spray, sand and spray again in one day. i only have time to spray and sand today but i have read in the past that you should only sand before you are ready to spray because the sand marks could close back up overnight. Is this true or could i sand today and spray tomorrow?

thanks..............nicko

uh huh. I just called Sherwin Williams tech support and they said not to sand today and spray tomorrow. They said to sand before you spray because the finish could close back up. He said if i sand today to go back and give it s light scuff before spraying.
So i guess that answers that question.

thanks.............nicko

I would take the sanding the same day idea with a grain of salt. It should be clean the object the same day with a solvent to remove dust and dirt.

Imagine trying to sand and spray a 40' sailboat in the same day. Just wiping the thing down with a rags or sponges takes half a day with a couple of guys. Those boats are sprayed in one continuous shot with the most expensive 2K urethane(Awlgrip).

Nicko, we have just switched to the surfprep system. The fine pads for clawlock primer and very fine for the cv finish. We also follow with grey scotchbrite for anything missed, blow with air and clean rag than spray. We do spray the same day after sanding, I have waited 8 hours after sanding to spray and have felt the finish start closing up. The surfprep system has really made our process easier and cleaner with the vac hookup from our festool. Scott B.

I would recommend our 5" 5 hole fine or very fine sanding pads. I like the 5 hole in the pad and back up pad even without vacuum because it let's the swarth through the holes so it doesn't need blown off so much.

If it's just clear coat run fine. Stain run very fine. They will speed up your process a lot.

We use Superfine+ Surfprep pads when sanding clearcoat (Sherwood CV) and get fantastic results.

I find the Very Fine pads to burn too easily. Superfine+ definitely not.

On sanding crown moldings, I find the "Superfine" gray sanding sponges to be the best. You have to learn how to bend them to conform to the concave/convex surfaces, but once you figure it out, it's quick, and it does a FAR better job of leveling off the nibs (flattening) than Mirlon Maroon pads.

We use the Mirlon Maroon pads for gently etching the surface of white paint to accept clearcoat---- for that, Mirlon is awesome.