After five years of seamless use of this product combo, I encountered an unexpected issue while refinishing a table and benches. The first clear coat was flawless, but after a night's wait, a scuff, and a respray, an issue emerged.

Products and schedule:
1) Stripped, neutralized (acetone), and sanded all to 180
2) Applied MH wipe-on stain
3) Sprayed a wash coat using vinal sealer,
4) Scuffed after
5) Apply MH finishers glaze (even the color darkens the cherry)
6) Sprayed a wash coat of vinyl sealer, scuffed after
7) Then, I applied Renner LPL Conversion finish
8) Scuffed and sprayed the second coat after letting it sit for a few hours

On the second coat, to my surprise, the finish is cracking in random spots. I'm at a loss to explain this.
I assume the products I use have changed, and the vinyl sealer isn’t comparable to Renner LPL.

NEW INFORMATION AFTER TESTING
I have run a few tests, and I am not having capability issues between the vinyl sealer and Renner LPL in my test panels - all tests look great using the schedule above. However:

After stripping off the finish and final sanding, I let the cherry table top sit for a few days. I noticed that the table top and benches had something coming from the wood (see photo with raw cherry and spots). The spots wipe away, but I assume this might be reacting to the finish. Has anyone ever seen something like this before? I need to lock that down and am running tests by sealing the raw wood with blond shellac before applying a stain to see if it will prevent that from coming up. If you have any ideas on addressing this, I'm all ears. I can strip and refinish 200 pieces perfectly, and when this happens.

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I don't use the products you've listed, but I have had those reactions when using oil based stains and or wax contamination.
The wax was from using paste srippers, and not getting all removes with after washing the surfaces. Acetone, by itself does not make a good wax removal solvent. Better off using VIP Baptist and stool mixture and scrubbing with steel wool , and may take 2-3 times to insure entire removal wiping the surface each time with with a clean white cloth rag.
As to the stain/ glaze material, if it contains linseed oil, or even other oils, it can wrinkle up if in a semi cured state, where it is dry to the touch, but still has oil or unevaporated slow solvent under the seemingly dry skin on top. I was using either Nitrocellulose or CAB Acrylics, so whether this will work for your coatings problem or not I can't say for sure...but I would look at the MSDS INFO
to see what your glaze ingredients are, to know if they contain oils or not, and your stripper has wax or not.!

Sorry Matt had auto suggest on, didn't see what it was substituting for what I actually typed...
VMP Naptha
Xylol / Xylene not ( stool mixture)...50/50 mix..
Hope this helps..!!

Thanks for the clarification. My trusty Naphtha and Xylol came to the rescue. I have cleared off most of the spots with MH's Wax Wash, but there's still one spot that keeps oozing some liquid, and I will use the Naphtha and Xylol mixture for that one. I hope to be able to move forward with the finish schedule—this is a big table.

A heat gun or hair drier will help in assuring no seepage from the pores continues to be a problem, when you think the wood is dry use the heat gun and slowly go over the surface with the gun about 6-8" away and watch to see if any seepage happens, if it does wipe with cloth soaked in 99 proof rubbing alcohol, let flash, and run the gun over the area again to see if the seeping has stopped, hope this helps.!!