I am refinishing a fine coffee table. I have many coats of lacquer (low voc gloss). I have sanded dry 320grit then wet sanded from 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. Then wet apply 2f and 4f pumice and last rotten stone. The finish is slick as glass but I can still see my hand strokes. Many applications of rotten stone still see strokes. Help don’t know what to do.

Possible that the lower grits weren't sanded out enough to remove the scratches. If that's the case you may need to go back to the grit above what wasn't removed.

Your mistake is using the 2F pumice which in use, (as compared to or with 600 grit w/d sandpaper) is coarser..!! Even 4F pumice is coarser than than all of the finer grit papers you used.!! All you've done or accomplished is reintroducing larger deeper scratches to your 3000 grit sanded surface, a surface that at that point, could have been easily polished with auto compounds available at any automotive paint supply store across the country, best used with a buffer ( electric or pneumatic) to buff out the finish after applying the polishing compounds to the finished surface or to the buffing pad itself. You can polish by hand, but it is very difficult to achieve a truly polished glass like surface that is uniformly stunning as a piece of glass would be or is.! If further info is needed just reply.
Chemmy

Rick,

Leo has a valid point. What I learned to do to avoid not fully removing previously made scratch patterns was to sand the next higher grade of paper perpendicular. or at right angles, to the lower grade just used. One can then visually confirm that the preceding scratch pattern is removed. I found this most valuable with polyester finishes.

Also, Chemmy is correct.

Move from the 1950s methods up to current times. Go to an autobody supplier and get current on how to polish. Mirka Abralon is a great place to start.

You mean "traditional" methods.

"LOL"..... 😂😂😂
MIRKA has great products, but they can't polish everything.!
For example, heavily carved furniture, or other ornate surfaces.
This requires a lot of hand polishing with various soft to hard felts and other specialty cloth and tools, together with compounds ranging from course to sub micron polishing attributes. But for flat and not to curved surfaces, MIRKA works fine, so does micro-mesh, and a few others.

What the hell Chemmy. Where did the OP say his coffee table was heavily carved and ornate? I suggested he just start with Mirka. No where did I say it's the only way to polish lacquer.

???...that was an opinion, my opinion on polishing any or all surfaces...it sure wasn't a comment on your suggestion, I've used MIRKA for a couple of decades along with Micro-Mesh, and a couple of others that use fine grit sheets and disc. I will try in the future to be more " specific" as to my comments so as to not unintentionally offend you or anyone else, or maybe not even posting anything else ever. I'm not tied to this forum to the extent I feel I have to be cussed out over a post. So enjoy your stay with woodweb, I only came back here because of a particular post that no-one was answering. I don't need any information or help from anyone on this site, I can let everyone struggle on their own or have others here give their two cents. I will keep my two cents to myself and just continue to help those who contact me for help.
Have a good life..!

Settle down everyone. No one needs to get their panties in a bunch over a woodworking forum.

I really just took a guess at what this meant. You have to admit it's open to personal interpretation.

"LOL"..... 😂😂😂

" I don't need any information or help from anyone on this site, "

I've never met anyone that knows everything and never needs help on a subject, I feel blessed to have read this post