Total Finishing Supplies

Professional Finishing

You are not logged in. [ Login ] Why log in
(NOTE: Login is not required to post)

Better at fixing than finishing

8/6/26       
Steve Member


I haven't done any refinishing the past 35 years as I was busy varnishing teak on my boat.  I have Zero experience at matching colors being an old oil finish guy. I rescued this old chest before it was trashed. Hand dovetails, square nails but very poorly constructed. Re glued the drawers, repaired rails but unfortunately was forced into sanding the entire top. The photo shows the sanded (pretty sure it's walnut) top with a strip that is wet with mineral spirts. I have no plans on touching the 130yr old shellac as I like the battle scared flat,  almost oiled finish it shows.   On the inside of cabinet, I can see stain remanence of a very dark brown  reddish stain that may have been used.  Where do I start in trying to get a finish on the top to come close to the old somewhat muddy finish ? Dyes ? Stains ? wiping, gel, Glaze ?  a mixture ?  Currently I have no inventory of stains just some Keda power alkaline dyes and Garret shellac flakes.  My only local choices of stains are Minwax or Old Masters.  Just need to get it expectable-

Any and all suggestions and instruction is greatly appreciated.   Best Regards Stev


View higher quality, full size image (1410 X 1410)

8/6/26       #2: Better at fixing than finishing ...
Jr Lee  Member

Website: http://www.leecabinets.com

Hi Steve. My eyes are thinking cherry but maybe walnut. I would get some small pieces of cherry and walnut and start making some samples with different stains and or glazes to try to match what you have so you don't do anything to the chest befor you have the right stain and procedure.
Good luck
Jr

8/6/26       #3: Better at fixing than finishing ...
Steve Member

Thx for the reply- That is a major part of my problem - no access to scraps for experiments. This chest has all kind of shades. I thought walnut but those with more experience may chime in. I took photo in three types of light- they all looked a little different. Parts of the sides are much redder than the drawers.


View higher quality, full size image (4080 X 3072)


View higher quality, full size image (4080 X 3072)

8/7/26       #4: Better at fixing than finishing ...
Chemmy

Its walnut the darker shades are mainly due to heavier figure as compared to the flat sawn wood you applied M as to.!! You can start,c fairly cheaply by going to any paint store selling water based latex paints. Buying a gallon of clear tint base, and three or Four small amounts of their color tints, in this case a yellow tint, an orange or reddish orange, and black.!! The pour a small amount of the clear face in a cup and use a eye dropper to put drop by drop of coloring into the clear....till you get close to that color you seek, if to light, then and just one drop at a time of black to darken or shade it..it may take awhile, but once your happy with it..scale up to the amount you need to do the entire piece(s)
The then also means you either carefully measure the liquid or weigh the liquid clear and drops individually, since your using small amounts, I recommend the measuring line cup of say
4-8 oz to upside the amount to say..16-24-32 oz. As needed..ok?

8/7/26       #5: Better at fixing than finishing ...
Steve Member

Chemmy- THX. I have never heard of this technique. Do you basically end with a water based stain? I need to work on getting a sample board or two. I just moved from CA to East TN and don't know the area yet. I have been watching Tom McLaughlin "epic woodworking" on U Tube - the guy makes it look easy. Often using a wash coat and using glazes on walnut. Finish matching is really an art forum - maybe in my next life.

8/7/26       #6: Better at fixing than finishing ...
JeffA

What chemmy says is the best way. But you can also find stains already made in quart size and buy those same colors like the most yellow one, a red one and a dark/black/brown one and do the same without buying the clear base. If you start with a ratio of 7 parts yellow, 2 parts red and 1 part black and see where that takes you. Just a thought.

8/7/26       #7: Better at fixing than finishing ...
Chemmy

Yes, it will be a water based stain, which can be thinned out if necessary. You could use it hot...120° or less, but it would raise the grain and need more sanding with fine paper, than applying it cold. I was only recommending it due to what you posted about not wanting to spend a lot of money and not having any real experience, in color matching.

Solvent based finishes and oil/water/and aliphatic hydrocarbon based clear solvents like Naptha, mineral spirits, and others as the carrier or vehicle to use or suspend my colors in.

Shellac was one of my top choices for finishing old wood as well as new...no guns or compressors or fans needed, but lots of elbow grease, for friction polishing, or fine hair synthetic brushes for uniform applications of the shellac.

Since we seem to be close by, (I'm in Knoxville Tennessee), it's possible, if your ever in the neighbourhood, that we could get together...but I am retired and have no shop or equipment, I only occasionally use spray cans or my self contained motorized rechargeable Air Brush, for any small home projects. so no way to train or teach you anything or varying techniques, you will have to rely on youtube, books or other sources for that..

8/8/26       #8: Better at fixing than finishing ...
Techno Member

First of all congrats moving from this cursed country.Do NOT know the area you moved but cannot be worst than California when it comes to wood finishing.
Most of the good stuff banned and you have to be a wizard if you wanna accomplish a simple finishing task IMHO.

that furniture piece looks a like a multiple layers of both dye and stain coats to me.
1. Use a dye to establish a uniform base color
2. Stain and/or glaze to build the color
3. Tone/Shade to add color and depth as well as improve uniformity
this is my finishing schedule.
1:light orange base coat
2:reddish brown stain
3:modified mahogany toner to even out the whole piece.
I know its very confusing and you have tons of questions in your mind :) been there.
All this works if you have a spray equipment.
If you do not have just stain and call it a day.
Good luck


Post a Response
  • Notify me of responses to this thread
  • Subscribe to email updates on this Forum
  • To receive email notification of additions to this forum thread,
    enter your name and email address, and then click the
    "Keep Me Posted" button below.

    Please Note: If you have posted a message or response,
    do not submit this request ... you are already signed up
    to receive notification!

    Your Name:
    E-Mail Address:
    Enter the correct numbers into the field below:
     

    Date of your Birth:



    Return to top of page

    Buy & Sell Exchanges | Forums | Galleries | Site Map

    FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards (return to top)

  • WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
  • Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
  • A valid email return address must be included with each message.
  • Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
  • Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
  • "Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
  • Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
  • Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
  • Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
  • Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
  • Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
  • Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
  • Comments, questions, or criticisms regarding Forum policies should be directed to WOODWEB's Systems Administrator
    (return to top).

    Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.

    You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.

    WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.

    Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).

    Libel:   Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.

    Improper Decorum:   Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).

    Advertising:   The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).

    Repeated Forum Abuse: Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.

    There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).

    The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)


  • Forum Posting Help
    Your Name The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
    Your Website Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    E-Mail Address Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
    Subject Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
    Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Thread Related File Uploads Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .MP4 (Image Upload Tips)   If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
    Sponsors
    • EX-FACTORY INC.
      Offering New & Used Woodworking Machinery including Auctions & Liquidations
    • Unique Machine & Tool
      Industrial Machinery for Door and Drawer Production
    • TotalFinishingSUPPLIES.com
      Solutions and supplies from spray tips to spray booths for all your woodworking needs
    • Simantech
      New & Used Machinery, Supplies, Tooling, Parts, and Abrasive Products

    Become a Sponsor today!