need some advice on the best way to approach building the attached console table. Anigre veneer, ~5' long x 2' deep
the bases are brass plate welded that slip into the grooves.
The center of the tabletop is 3" high, the ends are 1.25"

I'm debating using solid anigre for the apron and some cross members underneath. The top will be classic core with veneer.
Does this approach make sense? I'm concerned about the top veneer and sides matching.
Would using the same flitch to veneer the apron be appropriate?
(I'm showing two images, one with the drawer open, one closed.)

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I'd be mostly worried about the brass and wood notches matching up. Fabricated metal is not as precise as machined wood. You're expecting the brass to counterbalance the tops? Have you tested the forces required to tip the tables? Looks like too much overhang to me.

I would think it better to make the top a full torsion box with anigre all around. Build the box core with the drawer opening in mind.
I too would be concerned with the base/pedestal connection. I think I would just have the end tips of the brass let into the wood apron and design a solid steel connection for the pedestal that is bedded into the torsion box.

If these are Art Tables and all the people concerned understand there will be no rock collection out at the ends, then it may be OK to build. Any weight not directly above the leg(s?) will tip the table easily.

If the legs are not cast solid bronze, I would put about 150 lbs of steel in the very bottom of the legs. I have done this with 1/4" steel sheets, drilled to lag bolt into a recess in the wood structure.

Once that is accomplished, then you have to attach the legs to the tops. I'll leave that one up to you. The drawing shows a wedge penetrating the top, giving the illusion that this supports the table, but I would only think of it as illusory, not as a real point of attachment.

thanks for the thoughtful responses. I do plan on pinning the legs to the table top as well as adding some weight to the bottom of the legs, The legs are made up of 1/8" brass plate.
The table will end up in the corner of a 3000 sf foyer with a telephone and lamp on it. Daily use is not in it's future.

Brant,
Nice project, the foyer comment qualifies the scope & expectations that helps us know the intent.
So many questions and ways to go but I would:
1. Sequenced book-matched qtr or ribbon stripe veneer would look good.
2. Miterfold laid up panels if you have access to a good slider & if bottom shows as a solid plane. Btm could be 1/4"th balanced construction access panels if reveals could be worked through.
3. Waterfall the end grain over the ends with that look would be my first design driver. This also begs the aprons to matched from the same flitch maybe over solid anigre so the draw front read as solid end grain when exposed.
4. Size your veneer flitch width to match the width of the top w trim allowance.
5. I agree w/ Tom about the bronze tips being decorative in the apron w/ steel plate up under.
6. You said welding, so if TIG welding C260 1/8"th with SIB filler the alloys are differing which you will have to be patient with any patination w/ multiple applications w knock back between and don't rush.
7. Wear a mask + fume extractor when welding but I am sure you have this experience from seeing you website.

You will get it,
TD

After a reread the C260 could be out to solid silicone bronze plate if budget allows (expensive and harder to get). The silicone bronze plate TIG welds like butter, and almost zero boil out of zinc. Then if you have to use 260 or other close alloy you might flame-braze so you don't have have darker patination problems associated w zinc and lower copper content brasses.

TD

Make sure you have a qualified welder who is fully aware of heat control during the welding. 1/8" plate of that size will very likely warp or oil can.

I have an excellent metal fabricator who has extensive experience with brass.

One of my biggest concerns is the mitred edge on the tabletop that is exposed when the small pencil drawer is opened.

One option would be to simply glue in a small piece of veneer. I'm not too excited about this option.

I was considering edgebanding the table with 1" solid anigre prior to veneering of course. Then cutting my mitres. If I went with this method, I think that I will also use solid stock to make up the aprons and veneer them with the same veneer flitch as the top.

I'm reluctant to waterfall the veneer on the short sides of the table because I would be running it perpendicular to the grain of the apron.

Would I need to add a balance sheet to the back sides of the aprons, or are they stable/short enough to stay flat?

Thanks for everyone's feedback

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With a large 1" edge under the veneer of the top you risk print through of the joint between solid and substrate. Seasonal humidity change and the different reactions of the two might show a slight line. Anigre is busy enough that it might not be an issue but the quality of your work shown on your website suggests you would be bothered by it. A solution is to counter veneer the anigre before pressing to the substrate.
For the apron I am a bit of a heretic about balanced veneering. I have had no problems with veneering only one side of solid and I live in Ontario Canada where winter RH is 6 percent and summer is 75. Use urethane glue so as to add no moisture in the veneering.
On the other hand what is the cost of veneering the back?

Good luck.
Tom