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glue creep


About six months ago I made a hardwood lamp incorporating white and red oak. The lamp was made from a number of component parts and required a fair amount of gluing and clamping. Now, I see that a couple of the glue joints have some glue creep. If you look down the seam of these 90 degree joints you can see clusters of very small white dots which are dried glue. I used Titebond. I've read that resin glue like Unibond800 doesn't creep. But it's expensive. Is there some other way to prevent glue creep?

7/8/14       #3: glue creep ...
sam Member

did you use Titebond 1 or 2?

7/8/14       #4: glue creep ...

Titebond II

7/9/14       #5: glue creep ...
sam Member

Titebond 1 will not creep. It drys harder than 2.

7/14/14       #6: glue creep ...
B.H. Davis Member

Regular Titebond (red cap.....often referred to as Titebond 1) dries very hard. To see this look at the dried glue around the glue bottle spout. It will be crystalline in nature and will shatter if pinched with a pliers.

Titebod II dries very elastic. To see this again go to the bop of the glue bottle. When you grab the excess glue and pull on it with a pliers you find it stretches.

We're aren't talking a huge difference in creep in a glue joint with one or the other. Many shops won't use yellow glue at all due to potential creep. We use regular Titebond on interior lamination projects where creep would be an issue and have never had any call backs. There are times though where we switch to epoxy to be safe. I prefer not to use the powdered formaldehyde glues.

BH Davis

7/14/14       #7: glue creep ...

Thanks B.H.! I'll definitely go back to using Titebond original which I used to use.

7/24/14       #8: glue creep ...
Chaim gottesman  Member


I have a commission for some bent lamination work and in my reserch I came across the idea of adding corn starch to PVA glue at 8% by volume to help eliminate spring back.
I have to credit Fine woodworking for the tip.
I did a couple of test pieces one with 2 layers of 3 layer bendy ply, the face and backing veneers of flat sawn maple (no starch).
the other one with 2 layers of 3 mm mdf and rift sawn red oak veneers with starch added to the glue (white pva with a long open time)
The first one had spring back and the second one almost non at all, maybe a mil.
I know its not conclusive as there are different materials involved in each but I'll be damned if it doesn't work.
Perhaps this could help you as well?

8/18/14       #9: glue creep ...

We've had this thread a few times over the last 10 years.

TiteBond 1 negligible creep
TiteBond 2 some creep
TiteBond 3 lots of creep
TiteBond White or Elmer's white so much creep you can't believe it.

I've tried to sand back TB2 several times and it eventually will telegraph thru paint later when its its installed in a house. I've never had an issue with TB1.

Please don't start arguing about the proper woodworking term for glue movement. Creep, telegraphing or whatever word you like will do fine. Some people get cranky when improperly using the word creep(its an engineering term)...not me.

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