Bruce H, All materials will fail at some point. I'm hoping to build a table that will last somewhere in the 5-10 year range. I don't think that will be that difficult with wood as long as it is periodically cleaned with soap and water and the movement of the wood can be accounted for. Heck, I even want the grey patina of the teak so there is a little less maintenance right there.

But yes...metal or concrete should outlast wood. But that is not the material that was chosen for this project.

RichC, 49 years?! Nice! That is a lot of experience. Thanks for offering it through your advice on this forum. I'm more at the beginning of the journey. But I'm sure you caught that.

I'm glad that you agree that the relief cuts and spacing of the planks should handle the inner wood areas movement.

I'm not against shrinking the 7" wide rim of the table down. I'm not sure how thin is too thin. I might need to make some models out of cardboard and compare. Any suggestions?

I'll read through that article tonight before bed. I'm sure I'll learn something interesting. Thanks!

Jason, Rich knows just about everything there is to know about every single phase of wood working from planting the trees to cutting them down years later to make and finish wooden cabinets.

Thank-you guys for the compliments. I haven't seen it all, but I've seen a lot. Unfortunately, I come across as too direct to many on the internet. A combination of strict German upbringing and a strong bent towards engineering.

I built an outdoor table a couple of years ago with a 12 segment outer ring of about 4-1/2" width. I used what I thought were long enough loose tenons to join the segments, with epoxy glue. After the first Winter several of the joints opened up, some by at least 1/8". I'm in NY where the RH changes a lot; nevertheless, I thought my design would survive.
I posted some photos here and there was a substantial discussion about how to build that ring so it would survive. The general consensus was to use a two or three layer ring with the joints offset. I haven't built a new ring yet, but if/when I do it will be with that approach. In any case, I think a glued 7" ring would be doomed to failure where I live no matter how I built it. I would reduce the width of that ring by nearly half.

John

I looked at the video for sure the ring will let go only because water will work it way in the joint. Pocket screw are not joinery yet its number one on YouTube

Concrete ring would work

This topic/project seems to come up often. For out door work, why not rip strips from a wide board, , keep them in the order you ripped them, and epoxy them around a form. The miter joint will stay tight as long as the ring doesn’t pinch the center panel.. All movement is across joint so no open heel or toe. Mortise and tenon, or use whatever joint you like best.

John, it took some major google-fu but I was able to find the forum post you were talking about. It is linked below.

First, that table looks great. How is it holding up now? Did you use G/flex in the end? It's kind of like reading an authors unfinished work. Lol.

I want to read over the forum post again when I have a bit more time. The brick layered yurt portion was interesting. Thanks for sharing that information. I had not seen that topic last time I searched the forums.

https://www.woodweb.com/forum_fdse_files/aw/847482.html

Matt, that's an interesting idea. I saw your post in Johns old topic as well. I'll keep it in my back pocket as an idea for now. I have a lot of wonderful information from all of you that I need to process. Once I do I'll come back with my second draft.

What is the problem? That rim is only 3-4" wide at the butt joints (miters??). That is what you all are crying about?

Make your tenons like you have planned, running the full width of those butted rim parts. Assemble with Resorcinol glue. Flip the bottom up, and run several 1/2" wide x 1-1/8" deep routes in from the bottom, 3-4" long, bridging the butt joint. Make snug splines, and glue them in. Resorcinol.

OR

Make a butted joint that has two long (3-4" ) laps over each other, like the Grumbacher canvas stretchers. The clue is glue surface area.

You guys are all paralyzed over 'wood movement' when you don't even measure moisture or range. Worrying over the wrong factors. Solving problems that ain't. You need to expand your view and think outside the box you have put yourself in.

I almost forgot. Gather up all those Kreg screws and jigs and especially the wood plugs, and take it all out back and bury it where you will forget all about that crap.

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