I don't know why this is racking my brain, but I have a room to install crown in that is 10 x 13 and it is an enclosed bedroom so all four sides would need to be coped. How would you guys do this or, would you make your last corner joint a miter? If I cope all four corners, in theory, I would be either coping every single left side and then the next molding would B slipped in behind the piece I just nailed up and that would go for every single piece except for the last one. On the first piece, I wouldn't nail the last trailing say 3 feet of it so I can pull it off the wall, slide my molding to the wall behind it and then snap in the ceded and into it.

The other option would be to do a right cope if I'm doing all left copes, so the last cope would be a left and a right cope. I'm using a Copemaster machine and I really don't want to go through making a template for just one right cope. I'm also too lazy to do it by hand. Lol

Am I not thinking about this correctly? I used to miter all of my corners and this would be the first time I have had to and or planned on coping every single corner on an enclosed room. What are your guys thoughts about doing this and how do you handle this? Thanks in advance

Cope your four pieces ahead of time on the bench, cut a small 12" piece and work the first corner, don't nail within 18" of the cope, go to the second coped corner , work the room until your back to the first corner, pull out the 12" piece, slide the straight end into the coped core and bounce the piece to the wall.

My approach is a little different
On the two shortest walls I cut then full length, then partially miter the lower portion to just above the cove profile of a typical crown
On the
two long walls, I miter them all the way through, just fat of full length, then cope only the upper portion of the crown, slightly undercutting right at the profile
Install the two short walls closely to the install height, nailing no closer than 12-18 inches from the corner
Spring the two long walls in, aligning the bottom edge of the mouldings, and push the crown to install height in the middle
The crown will almost self install using the above method, and have the appearance of being crisply mitered at the bottom, and frog hair tight on the upper coped portion.
If necessary, you can tap the crown up to tighten the joint, placing a driving block across both pieces to drive them evenly.
Goes a lot quicker than it sounds in practice

Thats not too big a room, shouldnt take too long.
I mostly cut and cope all four wals on the bench first.
For me, the wall that has the door you enter the room through is the last one the crown is applied to. First is opposite the door, square cut both ends, and like the others suggest, dont nail the last 18-24 inches.
Then, one right cope, square cut other end
One left cope, square cut the other end
Then the last piece, cope both ends
Like its been said, you can tap the joints up or down to tighten the joints if needed
To cut the lengths, the dimension the wall measures is the long point of the mitre for the copes
I do all my coping with a coping saw, touch up with half round and rat tail files as needed. I have a collins coping foot for my jig saw, and all the discs for the angle grinder etc,, etc, coping saw still the most accurate and quickest for me and I dont fall behind others
If you're too lazy to cut copes by hand or cant learn to do it well, maybe you should get someone else to do it.......

Just cope both ends of your last piece. Don't be so lazy. LOL

I agree with Adam. First piece goes up straight cut on both ends. Second and third go up coped on the end that meets the first wall. Last piece goes up coped on both ends.

Or, same net result, first piece square both ends. 2nd piece copes to first with square cut other end. 3rd piece copes to 2nd with square cut other end. 4th piece coped both ends.

BH Davis

To cope crown molding in a closed room with four corners, begin by gathering your materials, including a coping saw, miter saw, measuring tape, and the crown molding itself. Measure the lengths of each wall and cut the short walls square at both ends. For the longer walls, mark the profile on the back of the molding and use a coping saw to create a coped edge that will fit snugly against the adjoining piece. This method accommodates any slight angles in your walls, ensuring a tight fit.
Once your pieces are cut, start by installing the square-cut sections on the short walls using finishing nails. Then, hold the long pieces in place against the installed sections, leaving the last few feet un-nailed for adjustments. Ensure that the coped end fits tightly into the corner before securing all pieces. Using temporary supports can help if you're working alone, and always check for level throughout the installation process to achieve a polished and professional look.