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best wood for a slab cut on an old maple

2/28/14       
Harlan

I can get my hands on a 40"x17' Big Leaf Maple log w/ many burls on it. It is actually about 5' through where some of the burls are. I would like to slab this log and make a solid table top full width and length. Typically when I mill hard woods I mill 4/4 stock and get good results on my air drying so my question is, what is the most stable wood on a Maple log for cutting a 5-6" thick slab. Is it in the Pith Wood or just out of it a bit? I am hoping for the best results after 3 or so years of air drying. The sharing of knowledge pertaining to this question is greatly appreciated.
Have very good day.
Harlan

2/28/14       #3: best wood for a slab cut on an old ...
Richard

Im not going to be much help answering your question, but was wondering when you saw it if you would post pics. Sounds pretty nice.

3/3/14       #5: best wood for a slab cut on an old ...
correy smith

Hello Harlan, many specie will split in the center if you include the pith in your slab. I like to take an 8/4 right from the center , let it split or put it on the mill and cut it into dimensional. To me the best two slabs are either side of the pith as far as having a decent edge that is not sloped dramatically. I like edges nearest to 90 degrees.
BUT, many woods with crazy exteriors will be the most exciting near the surface on a flat sawn face. I have slabbed Sugi with a burl esque exterior, the figure faded out fast the closer to the pith we got. The first cuts were pretty spectacular, starting from the top and working down.
I would try and clean any and all bark you can while it's green. A nice burly edge takes some care to keep from losing fine detail.
Let it set as long as you can. A year per inch then set it inside some where for a year or kiln it. Hard to get wood that thick dry.
I used Osmo on my last slab table and really liked the application and the finished surface. Seems like it will be easy to maintain.

3/6/14       #6: best wood for a slab cut on an old ...
Harlan

Thanks Correy, I kind of already knew that. I just wanted to hear it from some body else that had more experience cutting and drying thick Maple. Its like milling Doug Fir, the pith makes good fire wood, lol. I generally try to stay a couple inches out of the pith when slabbing, more if the width can handle it. Problem is I can never get big enough wood to satisfy my wants and needs. I agree with you, close to 90 deg. edges do look the best. I assume the center/pith wood will be a little casual but the exterior wood should be be pretty wild as there are many good sized burls all over this log and the shape is real interesting with a big crotch and fork at the smaller end. Now my only obstacle is getting this 7,000lb log loaded, unloaded in front of the mill and with out damage to the exterior. Its going to be a little bit before I mill as I am behind on painting a 72 GTO. I will post a pic or two before I stick it in a drying rack. Thanks again have a great day.
Harlan


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