I'd like to know who has experience utilizing a reefer truck body with a Nyle. I've found a 22' aluminum composite reefer with diamond plate floor and insulated roll up door for a good price. I'd like to match it with a Nyle l-53. Is this advisable, what questions should I be asking.

I'm limited in space and this size would work well.

I have a 53' reefer trailer with hinged doors. And use the nyle L200M works good but A witch to load and unload.

I have a 40' with a Nyle L200 and a track system to load?unload. Works pretty good

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Hey Bill that looks awesome! Where does the dehumidifier unit go? Also are those fans in that unit hanging from ceiling? I have had trouble finding info on how DH kilns are set up.
Thanks,
Al

If you look about half way down on the left in the top picture there is a cut out that the Nyle sits in.The first picture below is a picture of the kiln at its original location showing the outside addition that houses the unit. There is an access door to the controller on the left outside of the buildout and it is isolated/insulated from the inside of the kiln so that it does not get too hot.

Screw a 2x4 to the top of the kiln and fir down with a baffle that houses the fans--mine has 7 fans that I can individually control I also have a partition that I can add to block/divide the kiln in half that I use when I do not have a full load. This one will hold about 6000bf and that is too much for the Nyle L200 It was designed to dry only mesquite and it works for that purpose. I partition it for other woods.

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I wonder if you could help me with another question. Ebac brand DH kilns come in a smaller
size than the Nyle and would probably be better for the amounts I want to dry. They say unit cannot go more than 113 degrees. If you need to get wood to 130 degrees to kill bugs how would this be accomplished?

Thanks again I'm really interested in a DH kiln and trying to learn.

I didn't go with the reefer body but something wider. The reefer body is awful tight with the air flow. I went with a 12' x 20' insulated metal inside and out building. I started out with DH and loading AND unloading by hand (LONG DAYS). At that time it only had double doors (6'w). After load/unload 3x......I modified and made triple 3' (9') doorway, added a track and carriage system...Added a 3'x9' knockout mechanical room for DH, fans and heat.

My circulation is set up different due to my carriage hieght (ex-farmwagon frame), the initial air flows longways under the lumber and then up through the lumber and escapes out the sides. This lets my have and use FULL advantage of my heat never having hot and cool spots (heat always rises). I have insulated panels that I place around the carriage that creates a plenum (air balancer in hvac systems) forcing balanced air up through lumber. This is a little slower for my drying due to I cut wider boards than usual and creates fewer slots...but most of mine are live edge flitches leaving larger single gaps.

Here's a few pics, enjoy and maybe it will be helpful. Have a Blessed day.

I have a Nyle L 200 in a 22 ft cold plate body with a trifold rear door and a track system for loading. The "kiln cart" is made from an old school bus frame. The whole system works awesome and I am very satisfied. When setting pitch in pine at 170 degrees, I have climbed on the roof and felt for warm spots. The whole outer surface is cool to the touch. Amazing insulation in a cold plate body. The whole thing holds 2000 bd ft and that is a prefect match to the L 200 in soft woods.
I don't check here often so if you have questions please email me.
Jason

We had Nyle build a kiln just like this a year ago. It has 9 fans in it lengthwise and 2 DH compressors. We don't dry much from green lumber down to 8% but a lot of reconditioning of wood just before use. We had 2 drop down plenums also put in to be able to direct air flow. It works so well that we normally just use the heat from the fans for additional drying, but have also heat treated lumber up to 165 F for insects. Highly recommend it, and we have 5 other Nyle custom units that we use.

If you are going to do this, you can put a big dent in your operating costs by orienting the box east-west, and building a solar preheater box on the south side.

This can be as simple as a layer of tarpaper, firring strips, and a layer of clear plastic, with the air pulled from a plenum (gaps in the firring) at the top.

Bunches of clever solar ideas.