Shaner
In reference to the above post

"Another could be too many knives in the cutterhead at too slow a feed rate."

I would not agree with this statement based on the information you provided. You only have a single knife finish meaning only one knife is cutting because of bore tolerance in the cutterhead. I actually believe having four knives in the cutter head will help shovel the wood chip out of the way quicker than just two knives.

Chuck has been a respected leader in the industry for many years and has help thousands of clients. No disrespect intended, I just wanted to voice my opinion that's all.
Good Luck
Russ

We have had this problem planning pine for flooring. We increased the blower speed on our dust collection when ever we ran that and it fixed the problem.

What do you mean by blower fan?? The actual dust collector or something else??
Our dust is dropped into a wagon with air lock on bottom of dust collector.

we increased the speed on the motor of our dust collection system. We can do this by reprogramming it on the main breaker box.

ok. That is what I was thinking. I have to see if we can do that. For some reason when we set this up in 2008 the electrician said something about speed of fan but left it at the standard I think that it came.
I will look into this.
Thanks for the posts, I just ran a job of cherry casing and after I have made several changes this profile has not shown any of those dents. Seems to be mostly in more flat type profiles and of course MAPLE.

Sanding maple sux lol. Like stated above there are many reasons for this.
I wonder if because your crown profile knives stick out of the head more than your flat straight knives it just creates more wind so to speak and blows the chips out of the way easier than a straight knife?

Missing or damaged baffles or chip deflectors can cause this problem. On some machines some of these may be adjustable , in which case they should be moved as close as possible to the cutting circle.

ok. I mad some adjustments and changed out many hoses and cleaned out my return air bags several weeks ago.
So this weekend I had to run some radiate Pine jambs for a job. I ran the 5-3/4" wide jambs 1st with 2 euro carbide knives just sharpened in the 20 deg slots of my dual angle heads. When I ran this I had a ton of chip dents all over the 6 boards I ran.
Then I tried what Russ said even though I had dual angle heads I still wanted to try it. So I put in steel knives in the 12 deg slots and got them close to same depth as the carbide. The steel when I got done ended up being out a few thousandths more than the carbide. So to me it seemed like the carbide would clean up most of bad wood before the steel knife would make the finished cut.
So I then ran 450lft of 3-3/4" wide jambs and was amazed how much better this ran and seemed like the chip dent had gone away. Saw very little marks on all the boards I ran. Then of course on the 5th to last board must have hit a rock to put a chip in it.
then for last run of 150lft of a 2" wide jambs I switched out to a 2 knife 100 mm carbide. As I was running it the chip dent came right back just as bad as the 1 st run. So I think I am on to something here. I still need to move my plenum about 2-1/2' back and over 2' to get the hoses to line up closer to the top of the moulder and hopefully help get better suction as well than having so much slack due to how far apart it currently is even though I still have well over 1100CFM per head.
Thanks for the post responses and will keep at it.
Shane

Though, obviously, different, the situation provides food for thought on the matter.

I'm a newbie to turning. I've noticed even sharp blades occasionally get a tiny chip trapped between the blade and the wood being turned.

Since there is not real pressure between the stationary blade and the rotating in wood, dents and drag marks are imperceptible.

The more moisture, the more this happens. For example, when I turn a branch from the wife's recently fallen pine tree, I can feel the water spitting from the cuts. If I'm not getting nice, long shavings, I notice the frequent momentary stops when a chip lodges between the blade and the wood.

Just turning slightly solves the problem. Though not always practical, it would be interesting to see what affect it would have to move the board left and right as it moved through the planer.

At any rate, my experiences with the lathe do suggest chip clearing is the number one priority, right beside the number one priority of watching moisture content during events.

These things aside, what about rollers? Do they become soft over time, such that they might be more inclined to pick up and hold chips?

Do the rollers have resin residue on them that would cause them to hold chips?

We see chips stuck on rollers when we run Sugar Pine. Resin gets on the rollers and odd chips get stuck.

This is easily seen as the chip dents are a repeated pattern along the board. They are also quite a bit deeper than the chip beat.

It appears something to remove chips from the rollers, such as the brush used to remove build up on band saw wheels, would be worth manufacturers considering.

Many moulders already have these built in to the bed plate roller assemblies, it a piece of thin metal that barely touches the roller and scapes any debris to eliminate any chips from damaging the wood.
Merry Christmas to all.