Hello to all, I am curious what type of equipment is out there for beaded inset. Specifically, the beading then notching that goes on for face frames when doing inset doors. I am familiar with the process and would like to know what everyone is using. Not super interested in doing a web search for what is available. I would like to know what other professionals are using because the equipment and process works. Does not matter if it is older stuff if it is still doing the job effectively that is the stuff I like. Easy, dependable and can parts for it.
Thank you.
DJB

I usually use 1-1/2" S4S on the frames and 5/16"x 13/16" beaded moulding on the perimeter of the doors, chopped on a Morso chopper
I've done beaded frames but that's a whole other level of planning, execution, and just flat out more work

Never used it - but I remember a lot of fuss when Hoffmann first came up with something for this.

https://hoffmann-usa.com/how-to-produce-profitable-beaded-face-frames/ >

I also think someone could come up with a clever way to do this at lower cost with the pantorouter.

I think the Hoffman/Morso machines are really the best at it from what I've seen.
I've used router setups; with shopmade guide jigs, in a router table, etc. Also done it with table and arm saws, all are doable, mostly a matter of the time spent and can you get paid for it.
I find it slightly amusing that a square edge face frame and wrapping the door with a bead is more acceptable than applying the bead to the inside of the face frame by some.....
But, different strokes....

While I can appreciate the condescension, I've done it both ways.
Square frames with bead mould wrapped doors and beads milled into frame edges, mitered and chopped with square edge doors.
I've SEEN the bead mould applied to the frames, but didn't care for it.
I prefer my frames flush with the inside of the case and the fixed shelves set inside the frame top and bottom as an integral door stop.
Not more acceptable...the milled, mitered and chopped frames are far superior. Also more labor intensive.
Question is- Can you get paid for it?

I think my comment may have been taken out of context. A bit on my history. I am a professional consultant. I owned an architectural woodworking shop for (32) years. I got sick and had to close it down. By some will of God I am still alive (4) years later after a MRSA infection in my spine returned (16) times. What I meant was I do not care about Utubers, or hobbyist period. I only care what other professional are doing.
This stuff is very regional, I am in the Cincinnati area. In our area it is very acceptable to apply bead molding. In fact it is the norm. I do not know why; I think we can all agree that a properly milled, glued applied molding is perfectly acceptable. I believe an integrated bead is better simply because it is simpler.
The current equipment does not seem to have changed much in my (4) years of being sick. I am familiar with the existing equipment. I always like to reach out to see if someone has found a new way to do a process with equipment or technology. My current client uses 95% concealed hinges, so the doors hang from the side of the case. The bead is decorative.
Everyone’s opinions are correct, there is no right or wrong if you make money. Best of luck to everyone and thanks for your time.

DJB

I don’t do much cabinetry any more but was in an East coast shop a few years ago that had what I thought was a very slick setup for beaded frames. They had a US Concepts hauncher, Omga chop saw and a Razor gauge stop system. This was all connected to their software. Sorry no idea what type software. Anyway they were cutting beaded frame material out of the molder and cutting to length and notching all in one operation.

I think the bead milled into the frame is better than applied.

View higher quality, full size image (2852 X 2139)

I apologize for any condescension; I mean no disrespect.
I agree milled to frame bead is better and is what I do on stain grade cabinets and furniture but on paint grade I'll often apply the bead , using a tablesaw sled for cutting mitres and a mitre knife for trimming them up as necessary.
The set up Joe shows is really nice, absolutely the way to go if you do enough volume.

The milled vs beaded is not a discussion of equivalence

Milled:
1.S4S cut to length
2. bead on shaper or router table
3. haunch the beads
4. pocket screw or keyed dutchman
5. assemble

Applied:
1. S4S cut to length
2. pocket screw
3. assemble frame
4. bead on shaper or router table
5. rip beads
6. miter every bead individually to a unique opening
7. glue & pin the bead to the frame
8. Cleanup glue & fill nail holes

It doesn't paint as well, because you always get little gaps between the frame and back of the bead, because you don't want to use a lot of glue and make a huge mess.

Clear finish is obvious. If you've ever seen a beaded face frame kitchen done in mahogany or cherry that has had the bead applied, then you know what I'm about to write. The bead grain color will not match the frames. the nails holes will look like nail holes after you fill them.

Applied beaded frames are typically done by finish carpenters in the field that don't know how to haunch beads or don't understand the downsides of what I wrote above.

You can cut beads with a jap saw/miter guide, a table saw, and a sharp chisel faster than you can miter bits of beading and apply them. That takes a bit of experience & skill. If I've got a vanity or two to get out the door, I will hand cut them. If we've got a kitchen, spending the time to setup the machines is worth the time.

There's a Kreg router table setup that supposedly works well. I've never used it.

As I mentioned, I do beaded frames both ways
And if you "rip and run" bead to apply, you will get gaps in the fit up. I plane the stock to thickness, then run the bead on the shaper. A consistant reveal and good fit is easier to achive.

We haven’t done them in a few years being that contemporary designs have taken over. I purchased them from Meridian Products. The joints were haunched and mortised. They were perfect. Their van delivered to my shop (CT). All we did was a light sanding and glue them on. For a large kitchen it was around $1,800 for 5/4 (1”) paint grade hard maple. We couldn’t do them for anywhere near that price.

what a lively disscusion. I learned a lot from you guys thanks.