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Subject: Re: 50’s 16” Yates American jointer

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Message Thread:

50’s 16” Yates American jointer

4/21/25       
Dave Mayer

Website: http://MC3 millworks

How do I set spring joint lever. Having trouble getting a straight joint. I don’t want a spring joint.

4/23/25       #3: 50’s 16” Yates American jointer ...
Dustin Orth

I had a Northfield that had that same ability. The infeed and outfeed tables must be parallel with each other to avoid spring joints. I used a long straight edge and set the infeed at 0. Then set the straight edge on the out feed and bridge to the infeed. Adjust the outfeed table until its perfect with the infeed. Then check the cutterhead to make sure its lined up with the outfeed table. Don't forget to check at the left side and right side of the cutterhead to make sure the tables are not set at a twist. Hope this helps.

4/30/25       #6: 50’s 16” Yates American jointer ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net
 As long as the tables are true to one another as explained above the next most important setup detail is cutter head to outfeed table alignment. The top of the cutters MUST be both perfectly parallel to the width of the outfeed table and perfectly even with the outfeed table surface when at the high point of the cutting arc.

You need to set the knives so they are parallel with the table surface. Then you need to adjust the height of the outfeed table to match the high point of the knife swing.

If the outfeed table is lower than the cutter head high point you will not get a straight cut.

If the outfeed table is higher than the cutter head high point the lead end of your board will butt into the end of the outfeed table.

In my opinion the two most difficult machines to set up properly in the average woodshop are the band saw and the jointer. Both need to be in correct alignment in order to work correctly.

BH Davis
5/4/25       #7: 50’s 16” Yates American jointer ...
Karl E Brogger  Member

Website: http://www.sogncabinets.com

Cutter elevation can be set close with the machine off, but in my experience needs to be dialed in while the machine is running. The head doesn't sit in the same spot at zero rpm as it does at operational speed.

5/11/25       #8: 50’s 16” Yates American jointer ...
David R Sochar Member

Here is how I set up a joiner:
a 1" x 2" x 12" S4S straight hardwood block or similar is needed. Set the new knife a bit too high (1/8" +/-) in the slot and lightly snug the retaining bolts at either end. Use a urethane hammer or block of wood to tap the knife down until it is parallel with outfeed table. Place the hardwood block on the outfeed table at the end of the knife nearest you. Slowly move the head back and forth until it lifts the block and drags it about 1/8". Snug the bolt a bit more, and move to the far end. Repeat the setting and snugging of the bolt.
Now, use the hardwood block or urethane hammer to tap the knife down a bit. Since you may be moving the knife in very small dimensions, place a finger on the knife and the head so you can detect movement. Keep tapping down on one end and the other until the hardwood block on tho outfeed table is lifted and moved about 1/32". A bit of snugging the retainer bolts is required here. Mark the block with a pencil even with the outfeed table edge , and the same at the finish position. Once they are moving the block 1/32", tighten all the retaining bolts. Do this on all 3/4 knives. Now, we have all knives set into the same arc, and parallel with the outfeed table. Drop the outfeed table so you are well below the cutterhead Top Dead Center, 1/8" or so. Then carefully raise it until your hardwood block, with the weight of your hand on it, moves just a hair. The width of the pencil line works for me. Check all the retainer bolts on every knife before powering on. Now, run a light joint on two 4 foot pieces of hardwood, and inspect the mating of the two. If hollow or end sprung, adjust the out feed carefully. A few thousandths are huge at this point. There should be no end snipe or the table is too low. The joint should not 'run out' - go from full depth cut at the start, to nothing - no cut - along the board. This indicates the table is too high.

A word about threaded adjustments. If you have ever turned a guitar or any stringed instrument you know to go below the likely final position and come up to the proper setting. This keeps the tension even and strong on every string. The tables on many joiners are moved by threaded rods, so they also need to be treated as the instruments. Take the setting well below where you want to be, and come up on it. If there is any lash or play in the system, this overcomes it and will provide a stable depth setting.   

This sounds complicated, and first time will be slow and tedious.   Once you get the hang of it, it is like second nature.

 

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