Using a 3 Delta shapers setup to make RP doors for a couple local shops. When making small RP drawer fronts I have a heck of a time coming up with a way to hold the panel safely and accurately. Does any one know of a good fixture that would work with this system? I made a few shop made fixtures but nothing I real proud about, I am also using the Frued 2000 insert system for the profiles.

Set up the shaper so there is a continuous fence under the top mount cutter (assumed). This will prevent the parts from twisting and getting 'eaten' by the shaper. Beyond that, you can lay up a group of 4-6 parts and connect them with tape, or even an above the work carrier board that the feeder can pull thru. The carrier board needs a 'hook' on the tail end to push the panels. A side pressure board may also be helpful to prevent twisting under the feeder, keeping the parts tight to the fence.

Tedious, no matter what you do. Just keep you fingers out of the area! Small panels have chewed up a hand or two on two people I know.

Aigner make a shaper fence with "fingers" that close to make a continuous surface as mentioned by David. It's quick and easy to deploy.

Aigner also make a holder for small parts that keeps your hands away from the business end.

For the really narrow end grain, have you thought of using a coping sled? You may have to lengthen the piece that runs on the fence. I use the Aigner coping sled but it needs modifying to reliably hold the material square to the fence.

I've attached a photo of the plate I had made at a local machine shop.

The Aigner stuff can seem expensive but very cheap when compared to the cost of a hand or finger. Joe Calhoun is an excellent source of Aigner equipment and will give you great advice on which elements will work best for your situation.

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You might try and find a Panel Crafter. The one I have works well.

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Guys thanks for the help and input. I will look into a couple of the sleds recommended. I had thought of switching to a machine such as a EZ Door but besides the cost factor I can't seem to find someone locally here in Central FL that is using one to see if it can machine the small parts. I only making about 300 or so doors a year and not sure it would pay off. Thanks again

Here is a link to a unit as described above. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reliable-Cutting-Tools-609-24-Shaper-Panelcrafter-Raised-P
anel-Door-Fixture-/121844541326?hash=item1c5e80278e:g:PdYAAOSwJcZWdfW6

It is similar to one I use. It is on eBay and the starting auction price is $650. New ones of this size, 24inch, run $1500-$2000

Jr

A lot of good ideas here, I will add a couple more. The Aigner fences will not work on Delta shapers. They are too large and thick.
The coping attachment Read shows can work with these shapers. We used to use Weaver products for cabinet door building and they have some gear for small shapers that might help. The fixture Bruce shows is probably best for small shapers.
I prefer to use the sliding table for small panels. In the picture we even did the curve on the sliding table by first making a straight cut across the curve then for the second pass reducing clamp pressure and lightly pushing the curve part against the guide.
The other pictures show a fixture that can be used with a power feeder. This was for a southwest style door pair 10' high door with over 50 back to back panels per door that were about 7" square thick panels with a deep raise. They had a specific profile and to avoid buying a custom 3 wing panel raiser we used a corrugated knife tilted to reduce knife projection. Because of the tilt and with the cutter at spindle top we could not use the sliding table.
It was a very tedious job but a safe way to raise the panels. Not a practical method for one off cabinet doors though.

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I run all my door parts on unique 250 gt even the small 5pc drawer fronts very safe machine one man shop like my shapers but this machine is great for all my doors I build doors for other shops and trim carpenter I do around 1500 to 3000 doors a year with it