I have a Martin T17 in need of an arbor nut (and possibly flange) and riving knife. I know its a long shot, but can’t hurt to ask around. Short of parts, if anyone knows the thread pitch and specs of the arbor nut so I can get one made I’d very much appreciate any info provided. Those are the main parts I’m looking for, but could also use the dust collection port/shroud (see photo). Thanks in advance for any leads!

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The nut and flange are easy. Martin can still supply those.The nut has a shoulder to fit inside the flange. My shaft was messed up by a previous owner putting a homemade arbor extension on it. I had a local machinest make a new shaft. Had to order a new nut but the flange was Ok. Cannot remember if it was just under $100 or a little over. Took some time because it came from Germany. It’s left hand metric but don’t know the pitch. Most of these saws were brought in by Reibling Company and had 1 1/4” shafts.

I doubt you can find a dust hood. It’s cast aluminum. You can probably have a new one made out of sheet metal.

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Hi Joe,

Thanks for your reply. Your saw looks immaculate by the way!

I’m in touch with the folks at Martin and they told me the nut is unavailable, but I will follow up and ask again. By the looks of the flange in your photo I do have the flange. I thought it was perhaps a flange for the dado extension, but the way you describe the nut having a shoulder to fit inside the flange clears up my misguided thought that there wasn’t enough room on the arbor to securely thread on.

Is your riving knife the original part or is it a new knife that fits? I’m in need to that part as well. I’m also looking to replace the sliding table fence. Do you mind me asking what fence you have fitted to your saw? The dust hood is of less concern, but I’d really like that nut and riving knife to get operational! Thanks again.

John,
I will get you a part number for the nut. The nut is the same as what my newer T72 saw has and I just used that part number. The riving knives are also off the T72. Martin should have those. I’ll take a picture of the holder on mine to see if it’s the same. I had a older T75 saw for a while and that riving knife holder was slightly different.
You are lucky to have the arbor extension. I was able to run the saw with my new shaft while waiting for the nut by stacking 1 1/4” shaper spacers on the extension arbor.

My T17 is 1977 and probably a few years newer than yours from looking at the cross fence and rip fence.
Yours has the cross fence with the wood piece under. That is not a bad fence once you get it dialed in. My old T75 came with the gauge to reset it after sliding it away from the blade.
My T17 has a newer style cross fence that needs to have a few parts made for it. In the meantime I bought a Felder short fence. It has a slot across the back side and I was able to mount it to the existing fence holders by making new sliding studs and drilling lower holes in the holders.
Most newer cross fences from other mfgs mount from the bottom and that would make adaptations more difficult.
The Felder Fence is not very accurate for length though because the stops do not line up square and fit loose so going back to repeat settings is always slightly off. The original fence is very accurate for a manual setup and anxious to get it back.

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Thanks Joe, I really appreciate you doing all that. It’s extremely helpful.

Good call on using spacers in the meantime. I’ll need a few more, but should be a much quicker ship time on those than parts from Germany.

You’re feedback on the felder fence shortcomings has also made me rethink my idea of fitting a newer fence. I’ll mill a new piece of wood to replace what’s on there now to dial it in and run the saw for a few months before making any changes. Manually setting the fence for angles doesn’t bother me, and all the knobs and levers to lock it are there.

I like the way you have your saw set up to receive oil with the reservoir and pump. The previous owner of my saw used grease on the zerk fittings. I assume they are designed to be oiled instead of using machine grease? My immediate goal is to get the saw tuned up and operational, but will make upgrades down the road.

I’ll try to attach a photo of my riving knife setup. Not the best angle or photo, but I’m away from the saw at the moment and will be able to get better photos in a few days. Thanks again I really appreciate your time and assistance.

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John,
Part # for nut - 184-071-00 T75-28 Nut main arbor.
If this doesn’t work I will get the newer saw number for you.
Your splitter holder is same as mine. I had to grind a little off the nubbin to get the splitter to fit. Might have just been wear on my saw.

A previous owner of my saw took the oil nipples out and put in zerks with bigger supply lines for grease. It was a mess with all the grease. Since I was missing the original nipples I just bought a new oil pump from Martin. A light oil is used here. Pricy solution but I went all out on this and no regrets..
Did you get this fence setting gauge with your saw?
This is a picture from my old T75. Very handy for resetting the fence when pulled away for ripping.

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Joe,
Thanks for that part number. I’ll reach out to Martin to see if that works and get back to you. Hoping they have that and the riving knife available. With those two parts I’ll be in good shape to get the saw to work, then maybe work on the cosmetics down the line.

I did not get that fence setting gauge. Is that for the crosscut fence I assume? Sounds like it would be highly useful. When I picked up my saw there was supposed to be a small pallet of blades and parts to the saw, but it was thrown away a few days prior my arrival. I wish they hadn’t told even me! Hard to believe that someone would just throw that out.

Thanks again and I’ll let you know what I hear from Martin

Joe,

Got parts ordered from Martin today. The main arbor nut was in stock and right around 100 bucks. Thanks a bunch for getting that part number to me, I owe you one. Anxious to get the parts in, but looks like I’m in for a month or so wait. Thanks again and I’ll let you know how things pan out once parts come in.

Glad that was still available John. Do you have a manual? It’s not much help but if you PM me I can send a copy. I also have a parts breakdown for the old T75 that has some of the same parts.

Gents. I just picked up a 2000 T72 that is going to need a little cleaning and work. There are a couple parts I need to identify were you guys able to find a parts diagram with part numbers? I have all the original manuals and not seeing anything there.

Hi Brad,

I have a 2001 T72A and I believe Joe has a similar vintage T72A with more advanced features than my saw. I think I have a parts list somewhere on my computer but I’m driving all day. What parts are you looking for? I’ll be back in the shop tomorrow and will help if I can. Joe is very knowledgeable and has helped me out quite a bit

Thanks John
I just picked it up and assume I’ll find more things as I start getting it going. It has an extension for the fence that folds down and I’m not real sure what it’s called. There was some damage from moving and it’s only the sheet metal part that I’ll bet can’t be found as it’s not a typical wearing part.

Brad,

Is this the area you are referring to? Is that part missing on your saw or did you just have a question on how to attach it?

Let me know when you get up and running and post a picture or two if you are able.

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John
Yes. It’s the metal panel on the right and below the extension. See attached

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