Someone sanded through the center veneer on my niece's Henredon mahogany and mahogany cross-banded dining table. The curved crossbanding and inlay would be next to impossible to duplicate and it looks like they are still well over 1/16" thick. I was going to replace narrow strips of veneer across the table between the banding where the substrate shows through, but the adjoining veneer is also very thin so the chances of blending the surfaces without breaking through seem slim. Before tossing the table in the trash, I am going to try to route a recess the full size of the center veneer and replace it all - no matching problems and the table can safely be refinished in the future. Maybe I'm crazy?

So how do balancing veneer rules apply to this situation? Will I be undoing the balance when I remove the top veneer? If I do nothing to the under-side, will the new veneer on top re-balance the top and bottom? Anyone have experience with this situation?

I have already dug into the veneer/substrate so no need to suggest alternative solutions. Mostly want know about warping after the new veneer. Suggestions on glue type and how to get the best fit to the innermost banding would be greatly appreciated. I suppose I will remove most of the black banding line and make the joint there. It will be much easier to replace that single black thread than all the banding.

Thanks for your advice,
Crazy John

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The possibility of this working out is slim in my opinion. I would recommend cross-banding the veneer you intend for the center before attempting to cut to size and apply to the table. This will stabilize and allow you to cut the veneer more accurately. When I say cross-band I mean two veneers laid 90 degrees to one another. Limit the amount of moisture you add otherwise you will have to deal with the veneer curling up while you are rolling out the glue. You can use PU adhesive for this as long as you have a good pressing arrangement.

The vein line in the original gives you some leeway when you go to layup. I would veneer right over that line and then use a router and template or cnc to cut a groove for a new inlay after.

Now for your main concern. Will the table warp? If you use water based glue like PVA or even plastic resin glue then you will be adding moisture to the substrate. I have misted the back side of single sided layups with water before pressing in the hope of balancing the job in the press (I don't know if has been better than only pressing during a full moon though) I haven't attempted to veneer a table top on one side but have had success veneering single sided jobs with PVA. I have found that how I handle the work after coming out of the press is critical. Leave the work in the press longer than usual to allow moisture to dissipate slowly through the substrate. Once out of the press, support the top on a level set of horses or beams to allow even air flow. I cover the top side with a sheet of ply stood off the top by spacers so that the panel is not getting air from my furnace or ceiling fans. Be patient, leave it for a day to stabilize before working it. If you manage to keep it flat after a few days in winter shop air then I don't think you will have future problems.

Epoxy and polyurethane glues will not add moisture so the chance of warping would be minimal. I think I'd remove the old veneer with a router, working from the middle out. Careful work near the edge with the inner banding should leave very little that needs to be removed with a knife and chisel. I'd make a template for fitting the new veneer to the inner banding. Start with a piece of paper and the old pencil rub technique. Spray mount that to a piece of hardboard/MDF, cut/sand to the line, test fit, adjust until it fits. Afix the template to your veneer layup, trim flush with a router, test fit, adjust until it fits, and then glue in place.
John