Honey Locust Slab Countertops
11/29/19
I searched the knowledge base and am not finding a "yeah, this is simple if you do it this way" solution. I'm making live edge tables and 2 slabs for an L-shaped eating bar for a restaurant approx. 11' by 9' out of Honey Locust slabs I had vacuum kiln dried. They seem to have stayed flat in the pile at my shop for the last year but no clue on how much a 17" honey locust slab is going to move due to humidity & seasonal changes. At this point I'm inclined to make it 2 separate pieces. No issues for the tables. For the eating bar, given that the restaurant environment is likely not going to be a highly humidity controlled environment, small place open kitchen with a heavy mix of carry out customers so people opening the door frequently I'm thinking the best solution is to make the 2 counters as separate pieces with no joint. This won't look as nice as a nicely mitered corner but I think will be much less issues down the line due to the expected seasonal wood movement. The slabs will be anchored to a cleat on the wall and have pipe legs towards the front that will be able to slide on the floor as the slabs move. I had considered a half lap joint with slotted screw holes to allow for movement but there would be some gap between the pieces that will be difficult to keep clean. Any thoughts on this?
11/29/19 #2: Honey Locust Slab Countertops ...
Have you looked at the Shrinkulator to see how much your wood may move with normal MC variation? Do you know what a 17" wide board, mitered to another 17" wide board does when the MC changes?
11/29/19 #3: Honey Locust Slab Countertops ...
Think about butting the slabs together but mitering the live edge section of the slab. Mitred live edges will not match though so you will have to do some creative treatment for the joint. I would work some Domino tenons into the joint the keep the slabs on the level.