Using white oak (flat/plain sawn) sheet goods and edge joining to make large panels. I sanded through the veneer slightly in two spots (different thickness on sheets for mfg.). What's the best approach to fix? Thanks!

There probably isn't a best way to fix it. Depending on how big the spots are you might be able to do some faux painting to hide it.

Very doubtful you can cut in a new veneer pc but it is possible. Find something with the correct graining and cut it in, glue it and sand it. Pretty difficult.

Remake the part is the likely fix.

Best way to fix is scrap that and start over. You want to provide the best possible result to your customers and the cost of a couple of sheets of plywood is not even a questionable decision to sell a patched up panel. There is no slightly when it comes to sanding through. You either did, or you didn't. Also seek out a better plywood supplier. You surely aren't buying big box store import plywood are you?

Unfortunately, it's not as simple as using new pieces. It's a sequenced elevation and I purchased 10 sheets from the same unit from one of my area's better hardwood suppliers. Out of the 10, I carefully laid out 6 that matched very well. This joint is a small seem that I couldn't avoid and I have to roll with it. I'm going to cut it apart and re-join it with the domino and hope for better face alignment. The back is hidden. If it happens again, I'll need a solution.

To repair it take a straight edge and a router with a straight cutting bit , make the cut maybe an 1/8" deep, I have used a small piece of solid stock that matches closely, This way you can size it perfectly to avoid much sanding.

Good luck,, " how good you are is how good you fix your mistakes"

Using a piece of solid stock to repair veneer will cause the solid stock to stick out like a sore thumb! Veneer is sliced wet and the absorption of finish is quite different than solid stock. It would still take a magician finisher to get it to blend in. Next time, use a card scraper to flush up the plywood surfaces. I'd also suggest a spline to line up the sheets. I use a slot cutter on the router and it lines up better than any other method of joinery.

If you still have the width recut the joint removing the sand through. Careful re-glue with domino or biscuits (if you trust your biscuit joiner)

Rich, solid stock next to veneer happens all the time when a face frame butts to a finished end so it not unusual.With care Oak is easy to splice and match grain.He did say the back is hidden.

Is this project one with a natural finish, or are you staying or dying it.?

Is this project one with a natural finish, or are you staining or dying it.?

This is timely!! I drilled a cup hinge hole through a sequenced veneer door on the show side today, great day in the shop!!!

I did that a long time ago. I was able to find a pc that was very close and I replaced the door. No one said anything. I doubt they noticed. I had a hard time seeing it and I was the one who did it.

The stop on my drill press jumped thread and I pushed right through the door. Boy did some nasty words come out of me.

D Brown,
Sure solid butts up to plywood all the time, but not in the middle of a panel. The two materials never match perfectly when the finish goes on.

The finish is going to be "natural," so no stain. I was able to cut it apart and rejoin with the domino and got much better results. Side note, the domino is great you just have to go SLOW. The BACKS are still an issue as the ply varies in thickness a bit. Not that worried about these, but I am going to experiment with Konig's "Paint Box" kit to faux it in.