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Veneering Solid Wood

6/7/23       
Derek Member

The veneer will be 1/8 - 3/32 thick and I was planning on just veneering 1 side of the teak panels. However, during my research I found a lot of people saying that you need to veneer both sides of your substrate. But in every example they were veneering some sort of plywood.

Does anyone have experience veneering Solid wood and is it necessary to veneer both sides?
6/8/23       #2: Veneering Solid Wood ...
Tom Gardiner

I have veneered a single face of solid wood. They were small pieces - speaker faces, the veneer was 1/42" and the panel was 1 1/8" thick. The grain ran the same direction for both veneer and substrate. It was a low risk scenario and there were no issues.
I would not do this if the panel size is large, the grain direction is opposite to one another or if the veneer is as thick as you are planning. The thicker the veneer, the more force it can impart on the panel. If you use a glue with water as a component then you will be adhering a swollen veneer skin to one side of the panel. Once the glue is set and the moisture evaporates the veneered side will shrink and warp the panel. How much will depend on the ratio of thickness of veneer to substrate, the moisture added and the species and cut of the veneer.
You can use epoxy or polyurethane glue to not add moisture and opt veneer that matches the grain orientation and cut of the substrate to minimize the risk. It will likely stay flat out of the press, however, there may be issues in the future as the panel might react to environmental moisture deferentially from face to back and cause warping. Is this a project you can experiment with? I wouldn't want to deliver a piece to a customer without being sure it will stay flat over time.

6/8/23       #3: Veneering Solid Wood ...
Derek Member

Thanks for your input Tom. Makes sense on the veneer thickness and the other points you mentioned. The grain will be oriented the same, I will opt for epoxy on the glue up, and I have room to decrease the veneer thickness. I'm choosing teak for the substrate as it is a very stable wood. I have kiln dried both the veneer material and the teak and everything is metering at EMC.

I will also mention that I am using rift and quartersawn substrate.

6/8/23       #4: Veneering Solid Wood ...
Tom Gardiner

One last thing. If you are going to use epoxy for the veneer I suggest you coat the back with epoxy, if possible, to balance the environmental moisture absorbtion of the two faces.

6/8/23       #5: Veneering Solid Wood ...
Derek Member

Tom,

Let me see if I understand you. My plan was to use an oil based hard wax, Odie's oil, finish on the front and interior. Your suggestion is to finish the back of the panel in epoxy If I use epoxy as my adhesive for the veneer strips?

Is this to help even the moisture movement in the teak substrate?

6/8/23       #6: Veneering Solid Wood ...
Tom Gardiner

Yes that is my theory. When you epoxy the face veneer it becomes a moisture barrier so the other face might absorb moisture more quickly without epoxy. Rift teak is very stable so you may be able to ignore this step. How much humidity swing is there annually in your projects location? There is a wood movement calculator on this website so you can check what you might expect with seasonal change.
I don't use epoxy much but you want to check about which epoxies are compatible with oily woods. Seem to recall there being formulations for oily wood

6/10/23       #7: Veneering Solid Wood ...
Derek Member

Tom,

Humidity fluctuates between 65% and 90%. And about 86 degrees all year round. So yes pretty humid. After careful deliberation, your advice and the movement calculator I have decided to track down some mdf for the substrate.

My new plan is 1/16 inch spalted tamarind veneer epoxied to mdf front and back. More time but seems like this is the best route for long term success. I understand that the mdf surface should be sanded with 80 grit to creat a surface suited for the epoxy to grip onto?

I don't have a vacuum press but I did aquire two broken pieces of granite larger than the door sizes to act as my press. I plan to use wax paper and scotch painters tape to hold the veneer and keep the epoxy from adhering to the granite.

If you think of anything I am missing please let me know. Thanks again for your advice.


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